American Thanksgiving Dinner
David’s Restaurante will open for the season on Thursday 23 November

A Turkey Dinner with delicious turkey gently cooked in the wood fired oven.,Conchita’s delicious mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, gravy and cranberry sauce, Five Salads buffet and carrot cake.

Drinks at 5 pm, dinner at 6 pm.

Tickets for sale 490 pesos at the Restaurante.

Conchita is at the restaurante from 10am to 4pm Tuesday to Saturday.
Enter by small side door on the right.  Phone 969 103 8775
email restaurantedavids@gmail.com

After the 24th of November we will be open 9 am to 9 pm Thursday to Saturday.

Nearly forgotten, charming Yalsihón awaits adventurous travelers

ByCarlos Rosado van der Gracht

September 18, 2023

For the most part, even the most well-traveled Yucatecos never have heard of Yalsihón, though the locals seem to like it that way. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The tiny community of Yalsihón feels as far away from the hustle and bustle of modern life as possible in Yucatán. 

With a population of roughly 500, locals of this comisaria mostly make their living by working in one of the region’s many cattle farms.

Yalsihón belongs to the municipality of Panabá, known for its cattle ranching industry. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But despite its tiny size, if you take the time to look around, Yalsihón has a good deal of charm. 

The path up a once grand Maya pyramid in Yalsihón. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Part of this charm comes from the choice of its locals to build what appear like traditional Maya homes with painted boards of wood instead of the more conventional adobe-like or mortar houses seen in rural Yucatán.

Wooden Maya-style traditional homes are usually associated with the coast, which makes sense as Yalsihón is only about seven miles from the ocean, though because of ongoing road construction, getting to the beach from the town requires a long detour. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But if ancient sources are to be believed, Yalsihón was not always some remote village almost unknown to the outside world.

A stone mask was found in Yalsihón by INAH researchers. Photo: INAH

As it turns out, the small town and its surrounding area are full of evidence of Maya habitation stretching back thousands of years.

The remains of ancient mounds can be seen in the cattle fields now surrounding Yalsihón. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But more impressive still is the town’s enormous pyramid, which was once at the center of a thriving commercial hub.

Though Yalsihón’s pyramid is in a terrible state of disrepair after over a millennia of looting, its remains are still quite impressive. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine 

Telltale signs of Maya occupation, such as stone tools and ceramics, are found everywhere in Yalsihón, to a degree that suggests that the town was much larger and more important than it is these days.

Yalsihón was likely similar in size, if not maybe a bit smaller, than other ancient settlements in the area like Dzilám, now known as Dzilám Gonzaléz. 

A stone church, built out of the materials extracted from a large pyramid just behind, is the main temple of worship in contemporary Yalsihón. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magzine

The Maya text known as the Chilam Balam de Chumayel mentions the arrival of the Itzás of Chichén Itzá in Yalsihión on their way to Xppitah, likely today’s Espita

Archaeological evidence in and around Yalsihón suggests that the community reached its zenith during the Postclassic period and likely served as an agricultural and logistical hub, connecting the eastern Yucatán with large centers like Chichén Itzá and Izamal

Given its less-than-stellar infrastructure, the northeast of Yucatán is much less dense with archaeological sites open to the public than its west and south, though that by no means suggests grand cities did not emerge in the region. 

To the east of Tizimin, Kulubá is one of the largest known ancient cities in Yucatán’s northeast and well worth a visit, despite its poor roads. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But aside from the remains of grand temples, Yalsihón is also important because it offers us a glimpse into the way the ancient Maya actually lived.

The remains of a crumbling Maya dwelling in one of Yalsihón’s fields, constructed using stone and ancient mortar. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Walking through the surrounding fields, it is also possible to spot several structures, some of which are remarkably preserved.

The remains of a structure in the middle of what is now an abandoned ranch on the outskirts of Yalsihón. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Little archaeological work has ever been conducted in Yalsihón, with the vast majority of it being limited to surveying. 

Yalsihón’s largest ancient structure, as seen from above. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

If you go

Yalsihón is quite far away from any major highways, so the best way to get there is by car, driving northwest from Panabá.

Yalsihón may look close to the coastline on a map, but getting to the beach from there is actually quite difficult. Map: Google

As mentioned earlier, the infrastructure in the area is not the best, though some stretches of road are much better than others. 

When driving in remote regions of Yucatán like Yalsihón, keep in mind that cellphone service in the area is poor at best. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Also, because the area is so remote and receives very little traffic, moderate your speed to avoid hitting animals trying to cross the road. 

The story of dogs in Mesoamerica as pets, guardians, and even gods

ByCarlos Rosado van der Gracht

October 16, 2023

A 14th-century illustration depicts an Itzcuintli above a Mexica scene depicting a baby, as dogs were considered to bring good omens and were associated with beginnings. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magaine

Archaeological and iconographical sources make it clear that just like today, even in the distant Mesoamerican past, dogs were mankind’s best friend. 

A Zapotec clay figure depicts a domestic scene with their beloved pup inside a family’s home. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But unlike other regions of the world, only three dog breeds are known to have existed in ancient Mesoamerica. These are the Xoloitzcuintli, the similar but harrier Itzcuintli, and the Tlalchichi, a now-extinct short-legged breed also known as the Colima dogs. 

Coyotes, which are also canines, were also commonly depicted in Mesoamerican art and folklore, though because they were not domesticated were feared and revered in almost equal measure.

The Coyoacán neighborhood in México City takes its name from the coyote and is now one of the most popular parts of the megalopolis. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The role of dogs in Mesoamerican cultures varied between regions and periods, but aside from offering companionship and protection, they were occasionally sacrificed and even eaten, especially in the Aztec culture. 

An anthropomorphic dog in a Mexica codex hands an object to a deity of the underworld. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Like in other parts of the world, it was also not uncommon for dogs to be buried with their owners as the animals were associated with both endings and new beginnings. 

The remains of an excavated xoloitzcuintli buried in the Zapotec region of what today is Oaxaca. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

In the Popol Vuh, the K’iche’ Maya creation myth, dogs play several important roles in the narrative. For example, in the story of the hero, twins sacrificed a dog that belonged to the lords of Xibalba (the underworld) and then brought it back to life. 

There is also the case of the dog deity Xólotl, who was venerated as the god of fire and thunder by people, including the Toltec

Sculpture of Xólotl in Mexico City’s National Anthropology Museum. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Another interesting aspect about Xólotl is that he is the brother of Quetzalcóatl, the feathered serpent deity, as they were both birthed by the virgin goddess Chimalma. 

Representations of Xólotl sometimes depict him simply as a powerful dog, but he is more often than not rendered with anthropomorphic features. Illustration: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The tlalchichi or Colima Dog was hunted to extinction in the XVII century by Spanish conquistadors who considered them to be unclean. 

Given their relatively small size it is likely that these dogs served mostly as companions. Depictions of the Colima dog are plentiful and are often depicted dancing or in cute poses.

A Colima dog-shaped vessel was found during excavations at Monte Albán, Oaxaca. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Reproductions of famous Colima dog figures continue to be produced today and are often seen displayed in people’s homes.

Unlike the Colima dog, the larger and more resourceful Xoloitzcuintli has managed to survive.

Frida, a female hairless Xoloitzcuintli was much loved by locals of Mérida before her death last year. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán. 

Despite the common belief that all Xoloitzcuintli are hairless, this is in fact not the case. It just so happens that the hairless variety has become so popular that their furry counterparts get much less attention. 

A particularly cute ceramic vessel of a Mesoamerican dog today at Oaxaca’s archaeology museum. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

As purebreds, hairless Xoloitzcuintli are fairly sought after they don’t often go for under 500 USD.

Depiction of a Xoloitzcuintli found in an XVII century Spanish chronicle. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

In recent decades the popularity of the Xoloitzcuintli has exploded, with thousands of specimens now in Europe, especially Sweden and Russia. 

A whistle with a dog’s head was found during excavations in Tenochtitlan. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Will Yucatán’s new power stations make CFE outages a thing of the past?

ByCarlos Rosado van der Gracht

October 17, 2023

Aside from the new power stations in Mérida and Valladolid, older CFE facilities in Yucatán are also being revamped. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Construction of new CFE power plants is underway in both Mérida and Valladolid.

The new facilities are designed to help Yucatán deal with increasing energy demands and the numerous power failures that go with them. 

Existing power plants, including the facility on the highway to Umán, are also being retrofitted to generate more power by installing next-generation turbines. 

“We are looking to go online with our first tests in November 2024. When fully up and running, these improvements will add considerably to Yucatán’s energy production capacity network,” said Subsecretary of Energy Juan Carlos Vega Milké. 

However, the problems with Yucatán’s energy grid are not limited to production, as aging infrastructure and what can only be described as a mess of ancient wiring continues to cause outages. 

Haphazardly installed power, telephone, and fiber optic lines are a feature of most streets in Yucatán. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

In older neighborhoods, including García Ginerés, power outages constantly affect residents and businesses. 

Earlier: Renewable energy is under siege in Mexico, say experts

Several newer residential developments and suburbs tend to have fewer power outages as much of their electrical infrastructure is now underground.

But aside from blackouts, there is growing concern about how energy is produced in the state. 

Like in the rest of the country, roughly 80% of Yucatán’s electricity is produced by burning fossil fuels. 

While this is understandable given how long ago the electrical grid was first implemented, critics of Mexico’s energy policy say that the country really should be focusing more on renewable sources. 

Mexico’s carbon dioxide emissions were estimated at roughly 400 million metric tons in 2021, ranking as the world’s 15th largest polluter of greenhouse gases.

Emissions aside, according to the CFE itself, the electricity generated by private firms in Mexico is up to 26% cheaper than their own.

This has led several private firms to buy energy from alternative suppliers. However, recent modifications to Mexico’s energy sector rulebook now heavily favor state-owned power companies, making it harder for private firms to sell energy to industry and consumers.

Despite the government’s stifling of the private energy sector in Mexico, most energy industry analysts believe that the trend toward privately generated green energy is here to stay. 

“There is no turning back the clock. We are close to reaching our goal of running on 80% green energy and plan to reach 95% by the end of 2023,” said Grupo Bimbo President Daniel Servitje.

Vergel’s Aquaparque, Mérida’s very own urban oasis

ByCarlos Rosado van der Gracht

October 18, 2023

Mérida is a great city to call home, but even those of us who love it the most sometimes get bogged down by things like traffic and the city’s constant hustle and bustle. 

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Winter is the perfect time of year to visit the Aquaparque as migratory birds including orioles, and finches are in the region. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Fortunately, Mérida has several wonderful getaways to escape the craziness of urban life and relax. One such place is the Aquapaque in Vergel, a neighborhood in the city’s east. 

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An aerial view of Mérida‘s Aquaparque in Colonia Vergel. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Though the body of water at this lovely park appears at first glance to be natural, it is actually the result of limestone quarrying from roughly 30 years ago. 

After the large quarry was abandoned it began to flood and attract several species of birds not commonly seen in the city, especially water birds. At the time, residents feared that without maintenance, the stagnant water of the flooded quarry would become a hotspot for mosquito reproduction. 

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A Northern Jaracana spreads its wings as it runs along lily pads in Mérida’s Aquaparque. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Residents of the area petitioned the state government to address the issue, and ultimately in 1997, it was decided that the quarry would become a city park. City Hall got to work and planted hundreds of large trees for shade. They also constructed a series of paths that would become popular with joggers. 

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Ducks are drawn to the shade under one of the Aquaparque’s many trees. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The park has also become a popular spot for dog walking. Just remember to pick up after your pups and keep them on a leash at all times.

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Mérida’s Aquaparque is one of the few spots in town where you can reliably spot waterfowl. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Grachtv / Yucatán Magazine

Today the park is popular with residents of Mérida’s southeast, as well as birders, but remains unknown to many residents. 

The best time to visit Mérida’s Aquaparque is early in the morning when the heat is at its lowest and the birds begin to come out for breakfast.

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The park offers canoe rentals for those wanting to gently paddle along its waters, but the operating hours of the rental shop seem to be somewhat arbitrary. Photo Courtesy

The city has also built a series of small pools on the property for children, but these have been closed to the public since the start of the COVID-19 pandemic.  

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Getting to the Aquaparque from downtown Mérida takes about 20 minutes. Just follow Calle 59 due east until you reach Calle 29 and then turn south towards Vergel. Photo: Google Maps

Entrance to Mérida’s Aquaparque is free and open 24 hours every day of the week. The park has groundskeepers but it’s perhaps wise to not visit too late at night.

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A white heron stands still in an effort to dry off in Mérida’s Aquaparque. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

So put on some comfortable shoes, dust off your binoculars and camera, and start exploring.

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Bring a picnic basket so you can join the woodpeckers in enjoying some breakfast or lunch at Mérida’s Aquaparque. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

For more on birding in Yucatán check out our “Amazing Birds series” Part 1Part 2Part 3Part 4, and Part 5 

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

Ask a Yucateca: Should I be concerned about appropriating your culture?

ByYesica Benitez

October 9, 2023

Ask a Yucateca: Should I be concerned about appropriating your culture?

Yucatán is known for its beautiful embroidery. Photo illustration Yucatán Magazine

This is a question I get a lot. Cultural appropriation has become a sensitive topic for folks in the last decade. So you may be wondering how people in Mexico/Yucatán feel about foreigners using elements of traditional culture.

In all honestly, people here in Yucatán tend to be pretty relaxed about this sort of thing. For example, when Looney Tunes said they would phase out the Speedy González character for being stereotypically offensive to Mexicans, people all over the country cried out, “¡Amamos a Speedy!” and the company decided to backtrack. A similar thing also happened with a relatively recent Mario Bros game, where Mario was given a poncho and set in a desert-like world full of structures resembling Aztec temples. Folks here loved it, while in the US and Canada, many saw it as being in poor taste. 

This image, created by AI with a prompt by Douglas Clarke, distilled cliché Mexican culture with just a few clicks. Image created for Yucatán Magazine

As Mexicans, we celebrate the fact that elements of our culture get representation abroad, even by non-Mexicans. This, of course, is only the case as long as it is done in a tasteful and respectful way. One sensitive topic is when foreigners embrace elements of narco culture, which most Mexicans agree is despicable. It also often rubs people the wrong way when gringos are adamant about giving their opinions on sensitive topics they don’t really understand or with which they have no lived experience. 

One of the things that Mexicans and Yucatecos are most proud of when it comes to traditional culture is cuisine. So when someone talks about the “authentic panuchos” they had in Toronto, we can’t help but roll our eyes. But on the other hand, we are guilty of loving cream cheese and jalapeños on our sushi, so maybe we should not be so quick to judge. There is nothing wrong with foreign takes on our favorite dishes; just don’t call them authentic unless they really are. For example, I once had an amazing frijol con puerco in Montreal, and believe me, I chowed it down like there was no tomorrow. Just for heaven’s sake, don’t put mayonnaise on cochinita pibil. 

Also, if you walk through the streets of Mérida with a poncho or a giant sombrero because you think this will make you blend in, we will relentlessly make fun of you rather than take real offense. 

So feel free to try your hand at making tamales, get that tattoo of a Maya balam or hire a Mariachi. We love it. Just make sure that when representing our culture, you do so in a respectful way that embraces and honors our traditions. The more you do this, the more likely it is that you will be embraced by locals and given the opportunity to participate with us in the celebration of our culture.

Kanasín native Yesica Benitez explains the realities of local culture to bewildered expats. Email her at yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com 

Yesica Benitez

Born in Yucatán, Yesica Benitez Chan is a marketer, avid gardener, softball player, baker, and a great lover of Yucatecan culture and cuisine.

Climate change and dangers to Yucatán’s cultural heritage By Carlos Rosado van der Gracht October 10, 2023

Much has been documented on climate change and rising sea levels affecting low-lying regions like the Yucatán Peninsula.

But one aspect seldom discussed is its impact on cultural heritage.

The principle is not particularly difficult to understand. As sea levels rise, structures — even those that have existed for over a millennia — will be submerged.

Large swaths of Yucatán’s coastline already exist in an uncomfortable reality. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The closer the archaeological remains are to the coastline, the more endangered they are. However, proximity to the ocean is not the only factor to consider.

For instance, the archaeological site of Xcambó lay less than a mile from the coastline but is also built in an extremely swampy area, making it liable to flood or, at the very least, get extremely muddy. 

The wetlands surrounding Xcambó often overflow during storms, making access to the site difficult. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

According to a recent NASA report, even conservative estimates project the globe should expect a sea level rise with averages of 25 to 30 centimeters, or nine to 11 inches, by 2050. 

Floods in 2020 were particularly severe in Mérida’s Fraccionamiento Las Américas. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

While that may not seem like a lot, when you combine this fact with the erosion along Yucatán’s coast and the destruction of the Peninsula’s mangroves, things could get very ugly. 

Despite being illegal, unsanctioned clearing of mangroves is commonplace in Yucatán and is done freely in the open. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

When it comes to archaeological remains, severe damage is already being detected in the region surrounding Ciudad del Carmen.

The remains of an ancient temple, swallowed by the sea on the shores of the Laguna de Terminos. Photo: INAH

Also at considerable risk is the archaeological site of El Rey, which sits next to a golf course on the lagoon opposite Cancún’s Caribbean beach. 

The archaeological site El Rey is seldom visited despite its location right in the heart of Cancún’s hotel zone. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

With the increasing size of developments along Yucatán’s coastline, concerns have begun to arise regarding the viability of continued growth in the region.

New apartment buildings, timeshares, and resorts are popping up all over Yucatán’s coast. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Though only time will tell just how much of Yucatán’s history will be lost for the coming generation, one thing is for certain: nature yields for no one. 

The contrast between the haves and have-nots is especially stark in coastal communities where erosion is eating away at people’s homes. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

Born in Mérida, Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican/Canadian blogger, photographer and adventure expedition leader. He holds degrees in multimedia, philosophy, and translation from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.

Construction of Tren Maya HQ in Mérida advances at a rapid pace

ByCarlos Rosado van der Gracht

October 5, 2023

An enormous office building that intends to serve as the Tren Maya headquarters is advancing at a rapid pace.

According to Por Esto, somewhere between 300 and 400 workers are working around the clock to finish the project by this time next year.

The sprawling complex is located in the north of Mérida, directly across from Plaza Galerias shopping mall.

Workers can be seen laboring at all hours of the day and night in order to meet their deadlines. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The multi-story building is designed to serve as the main headquarters for the Tren Maya, though why exactly it needs to be so large is a bit of a mystery.

Also unknown is the construction budget, which, like the rest of the Tren Maya project, is being built by Mexico’s armed forces. 

The location of the complex was apparently chosen given its easy access to the port of Progreso. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine 

The site of the new complex sits in the same spot that was supposed to be home to Mérida’s Estadio Sustentable.  

Mérida’s Estadio Sustententable stadium was expected to have a hotel, museum, and shopping center, but now it seems the plan has been scrapped altogether. Photo: Courtesy

Considerable advancements in the construction of the rail network, as well as stations, have also been achieved.

For example, the entirety of the rail network appears to have been set for sections 2 and 3, which extends from Calkíni in Campeche to Izamal, Yucatán. 

But despite the faster-than-expected progress, it’s hard to imagine that the entirety of the project could be completed by the end of President López Obrador’s six-year term.

Signs warning drivers and passersby to be aware of incoming trains have been installed at several points. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

On the other hand, as the president’s party (MORENA) is widely expected to win in 2024, the project will be finished nonetheless.

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

Born in Mérida, Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican/Canadian blogger, photographer and adventure expedition leader. He holds degrees in multimedia, philosophy, and translation from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.