I have done my best to organize all the info from June to today!  Due to many changes it is no longer easy and there is so much to share.  Bear with me!!

All visitors to the Yucatan need to be aware of the appearance of dengue including hemorragic and come prepared with repellants and/or lotions.  We are all encouraged to be prepared.

Dengue Virus Outbreak in Yucatan

Because know more than 12 people with Dengue, along with way too many people in the hospitals with Dengue … along with the nasty DEN-3 Variant of Dengue being the most common variant circulating in Yucatan that’s causing a lot of SEVERE DENGUE symptoms … (though all 4 variants are circulating now) … my Dr. of Virology, Dengue Specialist wife asked me to forword the following information:

Do you know the symptoms of when you MUST go to the hospital with a Dengue infection?
Self-diagnosis & self-treatment by amateurs can be risky.

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GO immediately to a clinic or emergency room if you or a family member has any of the following symptoms of a severe Dengue infection … when these symptoms (below) are accompanied by the other typical Dengue symptoms of fevers, achy painful bones, pain behind the eyes, etc.
If you have typical Dengue symptoms, PLUS any of these unusual symptoms of a severe Dengue infection, then due to thesgo to a competent clinic or ER:
~ Belly pain, tenderness.
~ Vomiting (at least 3 times in 24 hours) especially if vomiting what looks like coffee-grounds (congealed blood
~ Bleeding from the eyes, nose or gums.
~ Vomiting blood, or blood in the stool. (Congealed GI blood looks black, like coffee grounds)
~ Feeling very tired, restless, or irritable.
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**GO immediately to a clinic or emergency room if you or a family member has any of the following symptoms of severely low platelet counts, caused by a Dengue infection:
Symptoms of Low Platelet Count requiring Hospitalization:
~ Easy or excessive bruising (purpura)
~ Superficial bleeding into the skin that appears as a rash of pinpoint-sized reddish-purple spots (petechiae), usually on the lower legs.
~ Prolonged bleeding from cuts.
~ Bleeding from your gums or nose.
~ Blood in urine or stools.
~ Unusually heavy menstrual flows.
~ Serious Fatigue.
SERIOUSLY … Home-remedies (like papaya leaf tea) can seem fun … and they make the care-giver feel *special* … yet there are times to get seriously necessary proven DENGUE treatments to avoid Dengue Shock Syndrome & death.
Dr. Steven M. Fry  Ph.D. in Public Health, Env. & Chemistry  Lot’s more FACTUAL details here: ttps://yucalandia.com/science-health-issues/dengue-fact-sheet/
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The report above explains is why it’s SO IMPORTANT to eliminate mosquito breeding sites in & around our Merida and Yucatan homes that hold even a tablespoon of water for 7 days without drying out.

Please take precautions to eliminate mosquito bites for you and your family …

Work   to clean-up and eliminate mosquito breeding sites in & around your homes … and neighbor’s homes … including fountains, pools, old tires,  crockery etc.
For more details see:

Chikungunya & Dengue Virus Information
Mosquito breeding sites1 and Dengue Fact Sheet – May 2014 Update

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Students adopt Yucatecan traditional dress as their uniform

By Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

September 22, 2023

Teachers in training in Mérida have opted to embrace the state’s heritage by wearing traditional clothing to classes. Photo: Courtesy.

A group of students and teachers at Mérida’s teacher’s college have chosen the traditional huipil and guayabera as their official uniform. 

The change has come due to concern that fewer young people wear traditional clothing. 

Originally, the initiative asked the students to wear their traditional clothing only once a month, but several have begun wearing it every day. 

“Our traditional dress is part of our identity and our culture. We should all really be taking measures to promote its use in everyday life,” said Professor Juan Baltazar Uc Uc.

The students and teachers involved in the program focused on faculty training in Yucatec-Mayan and Spanish bilingual education.

Traditionally, men in Yucatán wear white pants and shirts, sometimes with a red sash, while the women wear long, colorful dresses. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yuctán Magazine

“Honestly, I have never been one to use this type of clothing, unlike my grandmother, but it is lovely and, for one, think it’s a wonderful initiative,” said student Emili America Chan Chan.

As part of their education, these bilingual teachers in training also learn about other elements of traditional Yucatecan culture, such as gastronomy, history, and architecture. 

Laws recently passed in Yucatán require the public education system to offer bilingual education in Maya and Spanish to anyone who requests it. 

Earlier: Formal efforts begin to integrate the Mayan language

As a result, the state has had to invest heavily in teacher training programs designed to achieve this goal. 

Earlier this year, an initiative was also presented to Yucatán’s congress seeking official recognition of the official status of the Yucatec-Mayan language.

Advocates of the move argue that such legislation would help to guarantee the linguistic and cultural rights of Maya communities.

Recent census data show that approximately 560,000 people in Yucatán speak Yucatec-Maya, mostly as their first language. 

The Yucatec-Maya language is also spoken widely in the neighboring states of Campeche and Quintana Roo.

Other Mayan languages and dialects are also spoken widely in Chiapas, parts of Tabasco, and the Central American nations of Guatemala and Belize — as well as large diasporas in the United States and Canada.

Foodie corridor not ready yet, to the frustration of everyone

ByYucatán Magazine

Pavers are being installed in front of the Japanese restaurant on Calle 47. June 23 File Photo: Lee Steele / Yucatán Magazine

The Calle 47 Gastronomic Corridor, linking the Remate with Parque La Plancha, is way overdue.

A mid-August completion date was blown, and after 11 months of construction equipment kicking up dust, some restaurant sales are down by a reported 70%.

The Gastronomic Corridor involved creating a pedestrian mall meant to be more inviting to visitors. Workers have been on the job seven days a week, at least 12 hours a day. The atmosphere is noisy, dirty and dangerous to walk through — anything but inviting to patrons seeking out a meal at Sandunga or Micaela, two of several well-loved restaurants there. 

Though no trees have yet been planted along Mérida’s Gastronomic Corridor on Calle 47, project managers say the “greening” of the area will be the last step in the project. Aug. 4 File Photo: Lee Steele / Yucatán Magazine

Residents and merchants received a notice from the Mérida City Council that work will drag on until the end of the month and perhaps even until the end of the year, several of them reported.

Some road work on surrounding streets starts in the wee hours of the morning, out of deference to the businesses, but to the annoyance of residents who lose sleep and have to climb over an obstacle course of rubble to reach their front doors.

That means the street may still be a construction zone during the holiday season. Work began in October 2022. 

A computer rendering shows the plan for Calle 47’s planned foodie corridor. Photo: Courtesy

Some residents, however, are elated that the project has increased their property values, even if they cannot park anywhere near their front doors.

“This is a benefit for those of us who live here because it was forgotten and deteriorated, with the presence of homeless people, garbage and abandonment, that no longer exists, but the dust from the construction is my only complaint,” Martha Bonilla, A Calle 47 resident, told the newspaper Por Esto.

Animated artistry: JAAR sees movement in his burgeoning career

ByYucatán Magazine

September 19, 2023

At 36, Mexican artist Jorge Alberto Aguilar Rojas —JAAR —is entering a new phase of his career. Photo: Courtesy

A Mexican painter introduced to the Mérida art community by Adele Aguirre at SoHo Galleries has found a new direction.

Earlier this year, the artist Jorge Alberto Aguilar Rojas — better known by his initials JAAR — attended the Annecy Animation Film Festival in Paris. He came home deeply influenced by what he saw.

“This trip was of the utmost importance for my artistic training,” JAAR says. At 36, he’s entering a new phase of his career.

JAAR paints portraits expressively and prolifically. Photo: Courtesy

He is studying animation at Mexico City’s SAE Institute, where his artist parents, Argelia Rojas and Juan Carlos Breceda, are alumni. In 2024, JAAR will move to London to finish his degree and then return to France for a master’s degree in animation at Gobelins in Paris.

“During my stay in France, I met with great Mexican and international artists in the field of animation,” JAAR recalls. Mexico was the Festival’s “guest country.” 

The festival was a whirlwind of top talent. It put him in direct contact with Mexican-born animator Jorge Gutierrez; film director Guillermo del Toro, who has also turned to animation; twin character designers Sebastián and Diego Ramírez; and ND Stevenson, the creator of Nimona, a new Netflix movie.

JAAR’s portraits are typically bright and bold. This painting is on sale at SoHo Galleries in Mérida. Photo: Courtesy

“This encounter with all these personalities from the animation world made my perspective of art drastically change 180 degrees,” JAAR adds, projecting that his paintings — which are typically colorful, somewhat abstract posed portraits of fanciful figures — will incorporate more movement.

“Adele and Kena from Soho Galleries have put all their trust in me to be able to continue my studies in animation, knowing that the next time fate brings us together will be with animated JAAR art, which can make present and future collectors find a more friendly way to access the JAAR world, the happiness that Soho and Adele have brought to my work has been quite a lot since the last 13 years since we had the opportunity to meet in the city from Mexico on one of his trips in search of Mexican talent for Soho,” he says.

JAAR characterizes his art as Neo-baroque Hyper Surrealism, full of fury, joy and magic. In his next phase, JAAR welcomes the integration of digital media, “preparing me for the creation of a future where technology is a key part of that future to come.” 

JAAR’s work can be viewed at SoHo Galleries, Calle 60, 400A between 43 and 41, or at sohogalleriesmx.com. Instagram: @artjaar

Nearly forgotten, charming Yalsihón awaits adventurous travelers

By Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

September 18, 2023

For the most part, even the most well-traveled Yucatecos never have heard of Yalsihón, though the locals seem to like it that way. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The tiny community of Yalsihón feels as far away from the hustle and bustle of modern life as possible in Yucatán. 

With a population of roughly 500, locals of this comisaria mostly make their living by working in one of the region’s many cattle farms.

Yalsihón belongs to the municipality of Panabá, known for its cattle ranching industry. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But despite its tiny size, if you take the time to look around, Yalsihón has a good deal of charm. 

The path up a once grand Maya pyramid in Yalsihón. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Part of this charm comes from the choice of its locals to build what appear like traditional Maya homes with painted boards of wood instead of the more conventional adobe-like or mortar houses seen in rural Yucatán.

Wooden Maya-style traditional homes are usually associated with the coast, which makes sense as Yalsihón is only about seven miles from the ocean, though because of ongoing road construction, getting to the beach from the town requires a long detour. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But if ancient sources are to be believed, Yalsihón was not always some remote village almost unknown to the outside world.

A stone mask was found in Yalsihón by INAH researchers. Photo: INAH

As it turns out, the small town and its surrounding area are full of evidence of Maya habitation stretching back thousands of years.

The remains of ancient mounds can be seen in the cattle fields now surrounding Yalsihón. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But more impressive still is the town’s enormous pyramid, which was once at the center of a thriving commercial hub.

Though Yalsihón’s pyramid is in a terrible state of disrepair after over a millennia of looting, its remains are still quite impressive. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine 

Telltale signs of Maya occupation, such as stone tools and ceramics, are found everywhere in Yalsihón, to a degree that suggests that the town was much larger and more important than it is these days.

Yalsihón was likely similar in size, if not maybe a bit smaller, than other ancient settlements in the area like Dzilám, now known as Dzilám Gonzaléz. 

A stone church, built out of the materials extracted from a large pyramid just behind, is the main temple of worship in contemporary Yalsihón. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magzine

The Maya text known as the Chilam Balam de Chumayel mentions the arrival of the Itzás of Chichén Itzá in Yalsihión on their way to Xppitah, likely today’s Espita

Archaeological evidence in and around Yalsihón suggests that the community reached its zenith during the Postclassic period and likely served as an agricultural and logistical hub, connecting the eastern Yucatán with large centers like Chichén Itzá and Izamal

Given its less-than-stellar infrastructure, the northeast of Yucatán is much less dense with archaeological sites open to the public than its west and south, though that by no means suggests grand cities did not emerge in the region. 

To the east of Tizimin, Kulubá is one of the largest known ancient cities in Yucatán’s northeast and well worth a visit, despite its poor roads. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But aside from the remains of grand temples, Yalsihón is also important because it offers us a glimpse into the way the ancient Maya actually lived.

The remains of a crumbling Maya dwelling in one of Yalsihón’s fields, constructed using stone and ancient mortar. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Walking through the surrounding fields, it is also possible to spot several structures, some of which are remarkably preserved.

The remains of a structure in the middle of what is now an abandoned ranch on the outskirts of Yalsihón. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Little archaeological work has ever been conducted in Yalsihón, with the vast majority of it being limited to surveying. 

Yalsihón’s largest ancient structure, as seen from above. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

If you go

Yalsihón is quite far away from any major highways, so the best way to get there is by car, driving northwest from Panabá.

Yalsihón may look close to the coastline on a map, but getting to the beach from there is actually quite difficult. Map: Google

As mentioned earlier, the infrastructure in the area is not the best, though some stretches of road are much better than others. 

When driving in remote regions of Yucatán like Yalsihón, keep in mind that cellphone service in the area is poor at best. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Also, because the area is so remote and receives very little traffic, moderate your speed to avoid hitting animals trying to cross the road. 

Isla Columpios makes for the perfect easy day trip from Mérida  Carlos Rosado van der Gracht August 23, 2023

Sandbanks in Isla Columpios are filled with palapas and columpios, or swings, which give the area its new name.But all that began to change when a small group of fishermen saw the area’s potential as a tourist destination.

Despite its name, Isla Columpios comprises several “islas” and sandbars surrounded by shades of sparkling blue and turquoise waters. Unlike most mangroves in Yucatán, the water in the area now known as Isla Columpios is crystal clear and dotted with several small islands and sandbanks perfect for exploring via motor boat or kayak.

Because the water in and around Isla Columpios is so shallow and the currents so weak, kayaking in the area is a real breeze. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

El Gato Volador, our trusty drone camera, has captured the beautiful Yucatán Coast on the Gulf of Mexico.
“We have fished all our life and will continue to do so, but tourism is a great business as well, and besides, this place is like a little piece of heaven on earth,” said Jorge Cab, who helped get the Isla Columpios project off the ground.

A flock of flamingos gather beyond the reach of the motorboats that, in recent years, have begun to buzz around their habitat. 

Best of all, this new tourist attraction is under an hour from Mérida, along the highway running through stunning Sierra Papacal.

When arriving, the fishermen-turned-tour guides are clear with visitors that although Isla Columpios welcomes everyone, littering and damaging mangroves will not be tolerated.

“We have found in Isla Columpios a great opportunity, but we also have an obligation to safeguard and avoid spoiling it for future generations,” said Arcadio Naal, who is from nearby Chuburna Puerto.

On busy days, dozens of motorboats offering tours can be seen zipping between islands in Chuburna’s Isla Columpios. But on busy days, especially during weekends and holidays, the swarms of visitors to Isla Columpios do feel a little excessive, which is why visiting this natural wonder is best during the week.

Once inside the visitor’s parking lot, visitors are offered tours for 250 pesos per person or 700 pesos per boat.

Kayaks and paddle boards can be easily found for rent at Isla Columpios, but prices vary from spot to spot, so it is a good idea to shop around. There are also several information kiosks offering cold drinks and the coconut-flavored treats Yucatán’s coast is known for.

A converted moto-taxi sells cremitas de coco (coconut cream) and toys for kids to build sand castles.

Just north of Isla Columpios is the Port of Chuburna, whose extensive beaches are among Yucatecos’ favorites.

Because this area of Yucatán’s coastline is within a protected area, very few buildings dot the landscape, preserving its pristine beaches. 

The small town of Chuburna is also a great place to get a more substantial bit to eat in case coconut treats prove not to be enough.

Chuburna has, in recent years, also become popular among kite surfers because of the winds, which tend to pick up in the afternoon. Though both Chuburna and Isla Columpios are also accessible via a road that connects them with Progreso, the route through Sierra Papacal is usually far less busy and much more interesting. 

On Saturday, Oct. 14, after almost 30 years, a solar eclipse will be visible from the Yucatán Peninsula.

A solar eclipse occurs when the moon passes between Earth and the sun, obscuring the view of the sun from a small part of the Earth.

Although the total eclipse will not be anywhere in Mexico, the best place to view this stellar phenomenon if you’re here is the community of Maxcanú.

The stellar phenomena is set to begin at 11:22 a.m., reaching its apogee at 11:24 and finalizing at 11:26 with a darkening of the skies of roughly 90%.

Of course, the actual visibility of the eclipse will also be contingent on other factors such as the weather.

Other areas listed by experts as ideal to see the eclipse include Hunucmá, Celestún, Sisal, Ticul, Tekax, Oxkutzcab, and Uxmal.

When observing the eclipse it’s important to remember to use special eclipse glasses or solar filters before looking at the sun, as looking at the sun can cause irreversible harm to the visual cortex.

Though the government has yet to announce any program for the upcoming event, in the past the city has handed out special free filters to safely view the eclipse.

During solar eclipses, animals including dogs and birds tend to become confused and cause quite a racket.

When it comes to domestic pets, it is best to keep them indoors with a safe place to hide in case they become anxious.

The Maya of antiquity were very knowledgeable about eclipses as recorded in the Dresden Codex which covers a period of over 1,000 years of stellar phenomena.

Tren Maya Information:

There are lots of recent comments & posts popping up on various expat FB groups here, inquiring about the details of next year’s upcoming Tren Maya services for Yucatan, Q. Roo, Campeche, Tabasco, Chiapas(?) & Oaxaca … but the information offered is scattered-though & buried-in so many comments & replies, that it’s difficult to suss it all our, or to even ken a little bit of it.
Here’s a summary of what’s currently known:
There will be 5 different types-levels of train services under the Tren Maya program umbrella.
The highest profile Tren Maya trenes are called “P’atal” … Express trains for “tourists” that run fast (100 mph) … have reclining seat options, dining cars, and sometimes even some sleeper cars for the longer stretches … Yet the P’atal trenes will only be stopping at the major “Estaciónes” – stations … AND there will be only limited numbers of these fast, luxurious, express P’atal trains every day.
The next level of Tren Maya trains are slower trains called “Xiinbal” of “Servicios de pasajeros” trens with lots of local smaller stops (“Paraderos”) for local people to get from point A to point B.
Next … There’s a slightly-more luxurious yet-still-slow trains called “Janal” that have high-levels of services, a coffee shop on board, but with slower speeds and lots of stops at Paraderos and Estaciónes …
Then … There’s Merida’s internal loop of trams, called “IETRAM” or “IeTram”, of smaller electric trains (trams) transporting passengers from stations (Estaciónes) out on the main Tren Maya line running south of Merida, shuttling passengers in and out from downtown Merida’s “La Plancha” station (Calle 47 & Calle 50) out to the eastern Hacienda Teya mainline station & western mainline station outside of Uman.
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Continuing on: There will also be yet another whole different group of trains, running on the second set-pair of rails along the Tren Maya routes, are called “Trenes de cargas” … Freight trains that are scheduled to start in Sept. 2024 … efficiently carrying cargo from Oaxaca to Merida & Cancun …
So, hopefully, these descriptions of the 5 kinds of trains that will be running along the Tren Maya system helps lift a little of the current confusion … along with this fun map of all the small stops (Paraderos) and the main stations (Estaciónes). 

Steven Fry
https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tren_Maya and Mexican national news broadcasts on Canal 14.
Feel free to copy or cite or reference, by citing Yucalandia.com
Read-on, MacDuff …
Comment


Motul, the magic town home of the famous Huevos Motuleños and birthplace of revolution By Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

August 3, 2023

Earlier this summer, the town of Motul de Carrillo Puerto, along with Espita and Tekax, was named one of Yucatán’s three newest Pueblos Magicos, or Magical Towns.

In recent years, several of Motul’s landmarks, including its city hall and church, have been restored in a bid to beautify the city and bring in visitors. But unlike Espita or Tekax, which are a little over two hours from Mérida (in different directions), Motul lay less than an hour from Centro.

Also, unlike Espita or Tekax, Motul is a good deal larger, and though it is by no means a large city, it certainly has a hustle and bustle to it.

Among Yucatecos, Motul is best known for one thing, Huevos Motuleños, or Motul-style eggs. This breakfast staple is made by bathing fried eggs set atop fried (or baked) tortillas in a thick tomato sauce, with ham, cheese, and peas — with a side of fried plantains and a chile habanero, of course.

Huevos Motuleños can be found on breakfast menus across the Peninsula and further afield, but any self-respecting Yucateco will tell you the ones at Motul’s market can’t be beat. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The most famous place to eat Huevos Motuleños is in a restaurant in Motul’s main market called Doña Evelia.

“I am not pretentious enough to think of myself as a chef. I am a traditional cook, and that is more than enough for me,” says Doña Evelia. Motul’s market is also worth visiting in its own right, as it has plenty of shops where you can find foodstuff most often unavailable in places like Mérida.

Aside from food and shopping, Motul’s market also often has musical groups or soloists busking for tips.  An older gentleman plays Frank Sinatra melodies on his slightly out-of-tune Saxophone in Motul’s market.

Motul is also known nationwide for its most famous son, former revolutionary, journalist, and governor Felipe Carrillo Puerto.

In 1909, Carrillo Puerto joined the Mexican Revolution, fighting on the side of the Constitutionalists. He quickly rose through the ranks, becoming governor of Yucatán in 1922. As governor, he implemented a number of progressive reforms, including land reform, women’s suffrage, and the establishment of schools and hospitals for the Maya people.

Wealthy landowners of Yucatán launched a coup against Gov. Carrillo Puerto, who was assassinated in 1924 along with several of his associates. 

Carillo Puerto’s short-lived romance with the American journalist Alma Reed has oddly enough become the stuff of legend in Yucatán (despite the fact that he was already married) and even inspired one of the region best known trova compositions, Peregrina.

Given its proximity to Mérida as well as several attractions, including archaeological sites and cenotes, Motul makes for a great hub to explore the Peninsula while avoiding the hubbub of its capital city.

Cenote Sambula is one of several in the region and happens to be within Motul’s city limits. 

If you go Motul de Carillo Puerto in the north of the Mexican state of Yucatán. Map: Google Maps

To spend the night in Motul, there are several hotels with a wide range of prices. For example, a night at Hacienda San Jose will cost you roughly 3,500 pesos per night, while more basic accommodations can be found at around the 600 peso mark.

Motul is home to several grand casonas built in the late 19th and early 20th century that nowadays double as businesses such as cell phone repair shops and tiny restaurants. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

A little-known fact is that Motul owes its name to a Maya priest born in the 11th century by the name of Zac Mutul. 

An Italian restaurant fit for a Soprano has finally come to Mérida  Lee Steele August 2, 2023

La Sicilia opened in February 2023 in the Santiago neighborhood of Mérida, Yucatán. 

Anyone like me, whose idea of an Italian restaurant was formed in the tri-state area of New York-New Jersey-Connecticut, will feel at home at La Sicilia in Mérida.

And anyone might also be a little thrown to see the absence of Italian-Americans on staff. You’ll be welcomed by a nice family from Oaxaca — by way of New Jersey.

“My dad moved to the United States in 1990, when he was just 14 years old,” the owner’s son, Kristopher Juarez, explains. US-born Kristopher’s English sounds just like mine. It’s his first language.

La Sicilia in Mérida is probably the only restaurant in Mexico with a map of New Jersey painted on the wall. 
“He came to make something of himself and basically live out the American Dream. He had been working some jobs here and there until he started working at an Italian restaurant named Buon Appetite in Bayonne, New Jersey. That is where he started to get his love for cooking, and it just grew from there.”

In 2005, Kristopher’s father and uncle opened the original La Sicilia in Belleville, about 25 minutes from Tony Soprano’s house. It remains open with his uncle and cousins in charge, says Kristopher.

Italian dishes fit for a New Jerseyite at La Sicilia in Mérida. 
“Eventually, we all came to vacation here in Mérida a few times, circa 2015-2021, and we absolutely loved it, but we noticed that most Italian restaurants were not exactly what we were used to,” he says.

Italian-American restaurants, particularly in the tri-state, take a more comfort-food approach to their menu. Dishes are strongly influenced by southern Italy but with a distinctly New York metro flavor. It’s not exactly what diners find in Palermo.

Chicken Savoy, for example, is native only to the Belleville area and has been dubbed “the unofficial state dish of New Jersey.” It’s a simple, unassuming plate with browned, crusted chicken pieces and a tart, brown vinegar sauce.”

Kristopher and his father run La Sicilia in Mérida. But their signature dish is Chicken Monte Bianco, which was imported from the Belleville restaurant. The dish consists of two pieces of chicken breast battered and fried in olive oil, cooked in a cherry wine cream sauce and mixed with fresh marinara sauce, topped with spinach, a slice of tomato, prosciutto, and mozzarella melted on top served with fresh fettuccine pasta. That’s a classic layer-on-layer dish that’s expected in any self-respecting New Jersey Italian restaurant.

“I think what makes our menu different from the other Italian restaurants here in Mérida is that we are not trying to do anything really fancy. We wanted to do something where anyone can come in and feel like they are at home,” Kristopher says.

La Sicilia opened in February 2023 in the Santiago neighborhood of Mérida, Yucatán. No real Italian-American restaurant in New Jersey would be authentic without framed photos of the famous or semi-famous.

The original Sicilia has a photo wall of local celebrities like MLB umpire Phil Cuzzi, “who is one of my dad’s best friends,” and ‘Sopranos’ actors such as Steve Schirripa and the late James Gandolfini, Kristopher says.

To the left of the entrance, aside from the photos, there’s a big map of New Jersey painted on its wall. At first, I thought this must be Tabasco or Oaxaca. But no. It’s actually the Garden State, complete with its major cities and highways.

It’s a great conversation piece, Kristopher says.

“The map was my dad’s idea,” Kristopher says. “He feels so grateful for what he was able to accomplish in New Jersey and never wants us to forget where we came from and how it all started.”

La Sicilia is in the Santiago neighborhood of Mérida, Calle 59 between 64 and 66. Facebook @LaSiciliaMerida

Museum and artisan shops to breathe new life into Mérida’s Ateneo  Carlos Rosado van der Gracht  July 25, 2023

Mérida’s Ateneo lay right next to the city’s cathedral but has over the past couple of decades fallen into disrepair. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Mérida’s former bishopry, known today as the Ateneo Peninsular, is about to get a major overhaul.

The Ateneo, as it is most often referred to by locals, will be converted into a new museum dedicated to the history of the Yucatán.


The Ateneo is one of Mérida’s oldest colonial structures and traces its history back to the 16th century and sits right next to Mérida’s San Idelfonso Cathedral. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
One of the first exhibits to open is slated to be a series of artifacts excavated during the construction of the Tren Maya.

The complex is also slated to have a bookstore, as well as shops dedicated to the sale of high-quality handcrafts.

The project to revive the Ateneo is being spearheaded by the federal government as part of several infrastructure projects funded by the Tren Maya fund.

Earlier: I hope I’m wrong about the Maya Train


Other projects being funded by the Tren Maya fund include a hotel at the archaeological site of Uxmal, as well as the opening of several new museums at sites including Chichén Itzá and Kabah. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
In 1915 the former bishopry closed its doors, giving way to a renovation project which gave the Ateno the french inspired look it is today known for.

The facade of the Ateneo Peninsular is known for its French-inspired architecture dating to the early 20th century. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Since the mid-1990s, the Ateneo has hosted Yucatán’s contemporary art museum or MACAY. Though the museum temporarily closed back in 2021 due to budget cuts, it is now open again, though at reduced hours from 10 AM to 2 PM, except for Wednesdays and Sundays.


The MACAY is in the very heart of Mérida’s Centro Histórico and is accessible through the Pasaje de la Revolución, a corridor adjacent to the San Ildefonso Cathedral and the Ateneo Peninsular. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

The federal government has given an inauguration date for the reopening of the Ateneo, but given that federal elections are to be held next year, it is likely that works will be complete by 2024.Off the beaten path, Tekax is more than just another new Magical Town  Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
July 19, 2023

As of late June, the town of Tekax (along with Espita and Motul) has been named one of Yucatán’s three newest Pueblos Magicos, or Magical Towns.

The road connecting Tekax with Oxkutzcab is lovely, with plentiful vegetation offering much-needed shade. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The hope, at least in theory, is that this designation will attract more tourists to Tekax and southern Yucatán in general, which is far from being a tourist hotspot of the likes of Mérida, Valladolid, or Chichén Itzá.

But upon arrival in Tekak during a recent trip, no “Pueblo Magico” signs were visible, and tourist services were nowhere to be found.

It’s not like Tekax has nothing to offer. On the contrary, this tiny community of around 25,000 is charming and full of interesting spots to check out, to say nothing of the surrounding area.

San Luis Rey Chapel on the outskirts of Tekax, in the tiny community of Tixcuytún, is said by locals to be the oldest colonial construction in the area.   Despite the lack of any “Pueblo Magico” imagery, it’s evident that Tekax has made considerable efforts to beautify itself and keep its streets very clean.

A colorful mural decorates the back of a section of city hall and leads down a walking street full of more murals. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The scenes depicted in Tekax’s murals reference its Mayan heritage, wildlife, and the production of honey and other goods. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Like practically all towns in Yucatán, Tekax’s center serves as the community’s primary hub, flanked by its church, market, and municipal hall.

The heart-shaped wicker ornament with Tekax’s main church in the background is perfect for selfies. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Like the nearby city of Oxkutzcab (try saying that fast three times), Tekax is known for producing large amounts of fruit, including pineapples, watermelons, avocadoes, pitaya, and the exotic-looking saramuyo, known in English for some reason as sugar apple. Though, of course, the region also produces an extraordinary amount of citrus, especially limes and oranges.


Native to the Yucatán, the saramuyo, or sugar apple, is very sweet and has high levels of Vitamin C and iron. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The facade of Tekax’s city hall is not particularly ostentatious, but if you look closely, right below the clock at its top, it says H. Ayuntamiento Socialista de 1926. This is a decade in which Socialist fervor peaked in Yucatán and across México.

The city’s main church and former convent, dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, was first erected way back in 1564, though its current configuration dates closer to the 1700s. Like virtually all large constructions dating to this period, it was erected using materials from far more ancient Maya structures.

Saint John the Baptist in Tekax was built by the Franciscan order, a fact that is well attested to by architectural features such as its large exposed stone entrance and decorative crests.  More interesting still is the temple chapel of La Ermita de San Diego de Alcalá, built atop a large hill, which makes it resemble a miniature version of Cholula.

The hike uphill to the chapel is quite steep, so make sure to bring some good shoes and tread carefully. 
According to local legend, the temple was built after an image of Saint Diego of Alcalá, which is usually housed inside the town’s main church, suddenly appeared atop a steep hill, only to miraculously disappear and reappear in its original location moments later.


The Chapel of San Diego offers some gorgeous panoramic views of the city and even has a nice little lookout that serves as a picnic area. 

During antiquity, Tekax belonged to the lands controlled by the Tutul Xiu dynasty, who built a great many cities, including Uxmal and Kabah. However, by the time of the arrival of the Spanish, the main center of power in the region was Maní, as even Mayapan appears to have been mostly abandoned by this point.

Ruins atop a hill in the nearby Maya city of Chacmultún, one of the most underrated in the entire state. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
As was the custom of the Spanish, members of the ruling dynasty were allowed to oversee governorship over their old domains as long as they took Spanish names, converted to Catholicism, and collected enough tributes from the locals.

A 16th-century Illustration of the burning of Maya idols and texts in Southern Yucatán by members of the Franciscan order. 

During our visit, the main city market was closed due to a renovation project, so most merchants were offering to sell their wares and produce out of the back of trucks. It will certainly be interesting to see how this new market evolves.

Delicious pineapples and watermelons seem to be for sale everywhere you turn in Tekax. 

Just a mile or so out of town lay the Grutas Chocantes, a network of particularly interesting caves featuring unique crystal formations. Other activities, such as rappelling and deep cave spelunking, are offered but require a degree of experience to be enjoyed safely.

Basic tours inside the caves descend over 200 feet and take nearly hours to complete, while the “extreme tour” goes much deeper and takes about seven hours to complete. 

Mexico’s Secretariat of Tourism leads the Pueblos Mágicos initiative with other federal and state agencies. To be on their list indicates a “magical” experience for visitors and qualifies local governments for federal funds. Locals also get training and guidance in welcoming tourists.

A statue depicts one of Tekax’s favorite sons, the trovador Ricardo Palmerín. But in recent years, the program has come under fire, with locals accusing the government of not following through on their promises and leaving the communities high and dry.

The beachfront town of Sisal, which was named a Pueblo Magico in 2020, now says it wants nothing to do with the program, as it has only increased real estate speculation, taxes, and the cost of living.   Pueblo Magico or not, Tekax is worth a visit, especially for anyone looking for a taste of authentic Yucatán off the beaten path.

For reasons that are not entirely clear, Tekax is known in Yucatán as “La Sultana de la Sierra,” which translates as “The Sultan of the Mountains,” which is a bit odd for several reasons.

The entrance to Tekax proudly welcomes you to  “La Sultana de la Sierra.”   If you go Public transportation from Mérida to Tekax is available, but going by car is much preferable as it is much closer and will allow you to explore other surrounding communities and attractions.

As Tekax is just over two hours away from Mérida by car and there is quite a bit to see in the region, so spending the night is a good idea. The town has several little hotels, many of which have amenities like pools and air conditioning, a real necessity from April to October when temperatures soar.

Mexico sends another contingent to help fight Canadian forest fires  July 6, 2023

Mexican firefighters arriving in Canada to fight wildfires
Mexico’s firefighters arrive in Canada. (Conafor)
Mexico sent a second team of firefighters to Canada on Wednesday to help combat the wildfires currently blazing through Canada’s forests.

The group of 100 firefighters and two technicians traveled from Guadalajara, Jalisco, via Vancouver to the Prince George area of British Columbia, a province in western Canada. They were sent in response to a request for international support from the Canadian Interagency Forest Fire Centre (CIFFC).

Fires in Quebec in June 2023
Wildfires have been blazing from as far west as British Columbia to as far east as Quebec, which has prompted calls from Canadian authorities to seek help from firefighting forces around the world. (File photo/Canadian Forces)
“On instructions from President Andrés Manual López Obrador, who recognizes the complex situation that Canada is going through in the face of forest fires in that country, and building on a solid foundation of bilateral cooperation, Mexico responded positively to a new request,” the Foreign Affairs Ministry (SRE) said in a statement on Wednesday.

The statement stressed that the firefighters have “the experience, physical fitness and training required to stay in the field for the period that is necessary, adhering to international standards to execute the tasks of control and extinction of forest fires.”

This is the second contingent of Mexican firefighters sent to Canada this year. The first group of 200 traveled to Ontario, in eastern Canada, on June 19. They are currently deployed in the areas of Dryden and Sudbury, where they are installing water pumping systems, tracking hotspots, opening fire breaches and directly fighting the flames.

Mexico’s support for Canada is part of the Operational Plan for the Exchange of Resources for Forest Fire Management between Canadian and Mexican participants, ratified this year. It also adheres to commitments made in the Working Group on Forests of the Mexico-Canada Partnership and in the protocols for addressing the effects of climate change in the trilateral North American Leaders Summit.

Mexican firefighters in Vancouver International Airport
The contingent of 100 firefighters and two technicians waiting in Vancouver’s International Airport for transfer to Ontario pose with a First Nations totem bearing a Mexican flag. (Conafor)
Canada lost more than 3.8 million hectares of forest to wildfires between January and June, more than 15 times the average of the last 10 years.

Meanwhile, Mexico has been gripped by successive heat waves and historically low rainfall. It has also seen sporadic forest fires in areas such as Guadalajara, but nothing on the scale of the fires in Canada.The next stop brings new hope for Yucatán’s Railway Museum
Lee Steele
June 25, 2023

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Mérida’s Museo de los Ferrocarriles. 

El Museo de los Ferrocarriles in the new Gran Parque La Plancha de Mérida will be open to the public at the end of July. And the accommodations appear to be first class.

While the original Yucatán Railway Museum was laid out on an open, grassy field, its new iteration will house most of the antique trains in a rebuilt warehouse. Some will have been restored to their original luster.


The Museo de los Ferrocarriles is folded into the new Gran Parque La Plancha de Mérida. Photo: Courtesy
By mid-July, the Railway Museum’s original operators — in place since 1999 — will officially transfer ownership of the museum to the National Defense Ministry.

Over time, the museum acquired 38 train cars from all over Mexico. They range from a charming 1903 steam engine from Philadelphia to a streamlined 1940s model.

“Fortunately, all the units found a home in the Gran Parque la Plancha,” said Celorio Carretero, who was the founding director of the museum and president of the civic group that ran it. “After 23 years, the civil association that I preside with understood that it was time. We are not immortal, and the new project fits like a glove.”

The new Railway Museum is located in the northern section of the Gran Parque La Plancha, bounded by calles 50, 42, 43, and 39 near Col. Industrial, Fénix and Jesus Carranza.

Also on Calle 39, where active railroad tracks remained for decades, the le-Tram electric bus system will connect to Tren Maya stations in Teya and Umán, among other points of interest.


The private rail car of José Rendón Peniche, one of Yucatán’s most remembered rail entrepreneurs of the early 20th century, was deemed beyond repair and donated to another museum. In the same area are the park’s most active recreation areas, including an artificial lake, skating rink, and amphitheater. The linear park leading to the 1920s-era train station is to the south.

Eight antique train cars will remain outdoors, in the linear park, and are already visible from Calle 48. These trains have been refitted as snack stands.

Some units were conserved, and others were restored according to their degree of deterioration and historical value. The association that was part of the original Railway Museum actively participated in the process.

They have advised National Defense staff with technical and color specifications to make the restorations as accurate as possible.

On one of the three tracks adjacent to the museum, there are representatives from five Mexican railways: Sonora-Baja California, Chihuahua-Pacífico, Pacífico, Nacionales de México and Unidos de Yucatán.

However, not all the pieces of historical value could be preserved. Such was the case of the wooden passenger car Rendón Peniche, dating from 1890.

The car, originally from Coahuila, appears in the movies “Guerra de Castas” (“The Caste War”) and “Peregrina,” but between termites and looters, the Rendón Peniche was too expensive to repair.

So it was donated to the Museo del Desierto in Saltillo, which had the means to transport and restore it.

The museography team in charge of fine-tuning details inside the new museum building worked at the Museo del Desierto as well as the Meteorite Museum in Chicxulub.

Active recreation areas at La Plancha Park are on the right, north of Calle 43. The linear park is to the left.
Along with the rest of El Gran Parque La Plancha, the Yucatan Railway Museum is expected to be completed by July 31. The Railway Museum association remains as a volunteer group called “Amigos del Museo.”

MuseumsWhat’s next for Mérida’s mysterious Casa Morisca?

Eating dinner at a restaurant across the street, we kept noticing how many passersby stopped to take a photo of the unusual and beautiful building at Calle 51 and 56.

Built in 1909, Casa Morisca (Moorish House) has always stood out. After years of abandonment, its intricate details have been slowly and steadily restored over the past few years.

This residence was built by Genaro Pérez y Santos, a merchant originally from Pontevedra, Spain, to share with his Yucatecan wife María Alzina. He and his brother Federico, also a trader, along with José María Pino Domínguez, founded a carbonated water company.

The distinctive 24-room French-Moorish house was home to the United States Consulate in the 1920s and a maternity hospital in the 1930s.

While in use as offices, scenes from the 1977 movie “La Casta Divina” were filmed there, according to one neighbor. Around this time, it was owned by the famous Chapur family.

It sat quietly, seemingly abandoned for years until a local architectural firm was hired to turn it into a hotel. The firm is no longer associated with the project.

In 1991, Morisca was completely restored by the architect Eduardo Millet Cámara and sold again in 2017. That’s when the slow-moving renovations and an extension began. Work on the new part of the building, which appears to be a hotel with underground parking, has lagged. Its lines are modernistic, in contrast with the elaborate entrance.

The fine details of Casa Morisca’s domed foyer appear to have been painstakingly restored.  In 2022, construction workers there told us that Casa Morisca would be offices, but we’ve also heard a restaurant would also be there, or maybe it will be a combination. That same year, I was able to walk through the open front doors and photograph the gorgeous foyer. Its chandelier was missing, but the decorative painting and stained-glass windows appeared to have been returned to their original glory.

The Casa Morisca’s stained glass and extravagant arches reflect the Arabic influence that is seen in a few houses in the city of Mérida. It was built by immigrants with an obvious nostalgia for their Andalusian homeland, one local historian has noted.

https://www.theyucatantimes.com/2023/09/julian-zacarias-visits-tourism-service-providers-in-the-port-of-progreso/

The journey of a young Yucatecan baker from Europe to Asia and now running Soco

ByYucatán Magazine September 15, 2023

At the age of 27, after spending many years abroad, Andrés Preve Carriles returned to his native Yucatán with a new passion: artisanal baking. Photo: Courtesy Soco

Andrés’ journey into the world of baking began after he moved to Spain for four years after completing a degree in finance. In Spain, Andrés discovered an approach to bread entirely different from that of his childhood, later taking an interest in pizza dough while in Italy. 

But his passion for baking did not really take off until an extended trip to Asia. While in Thailand, Andres purchased a motorcycle to travel the length of the country, eventually making his way to Cambodia and Vietnam. 

While in Cambodia, Andres encountered an English baker who introduced him to the world of bagels.

“It was in Cambodia where I first truly embraced the culture of baking and knew almost right away that this is something which would be a part of my life from then onwards,” says Andrés.

Later in Vietnam, Andrés would take on the challenge of an apprenticeship with a Polish baker specializing in sourdough, which is called masa madre in Spanish.

As anyone who has had experience with baking in Yucatán can attest, the style and ingredients found in the region are quite different from those found elsewhere in the world. Photo: Courtesy Soco

“One of the main challenges I was confronted with when returning home was the lack of additive-free grains, to say nothing of the climate, which makes baking sourdough all the more tricky,” says Andrés.

Once back in his home Peninsula, Andrés decides to start his very own bakery specializing in high-quality goods made from the best ingredients, with a Yucatecan twist.

“Don’t get me wrong, I love Mexican bread and pastry and enjoy implementing local ways of doing things with what I learned during my time abroad,” Andrés says with a smile. 

One of the most unexpected aspects of André’s journey was to return home and discover his parents’ “foodie side,” to which he had apparently been fairly oblivious beforehand. For instance, as it turns out, his father has quite the gift for cuisine, along with experience in business, which would be an invaluable asset to his new project. 

His mother, “Soco,” after whom his bakery is named, has also been extremely supportive, Neither parent ever imagined their son becoming a baker.

Soco’s specialty is its sourdough bread, though its best seller is their fresh specialty croissant. Photo Courtesy Soco

“The support I have received to pursue this passion has been such a gift, as it’s wonderful to have the opportunity to share this new facet of myself with my family.”

Soco now has two locations, in Colonia México and Santa Lucía, and produces between 500 and 600 baked goods every day, with the help of their staff of twelve bakers. Both locations also offer full breakfasts and delicious coffee to accompany their scrumptious bread. 

Soco also serves delicious cold brews and iced tea. Photo: Courtesy Soco

Andrés is also preparing to offer a sourdough baking course starting in September so that more people in Yucatán can learn about this fascinating and delicious process.  

Both locations are open daily from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. and are pet-friendly. Reservations: 999 458 2087

Online: socomerida.com

Instagram: @socomerida

Facebook: @socolapanaderia

https://www.theyucatantimes.com/2023/09/heineken-will-use-the-mayan-train-to-transport-supplies-to-its-yucatan-plant/COVID Jab Spike Protein Remains Six Months After Jab

According to recent research, there may be no off switch for spike protein production in some individuals who got the COVID jab

  • Recombinant spike protein was detectable in half the blood samples of jabbed individuals for at least 69 days, and up to 187 days (about six months, which was the end of the study period)
  • The authors present three “likely” mechanisms behind the persistent spike production: mRNA may be integrated into cells; the spike protein may remain constitutively active; or the mRNA may be integrated into bacteria present in the blood, which then continuously produce spike protein. All three mechanisms could result in never-ending spike production (or spike activity)
  • In-vitro research published in 2022 found the mRNA in Pfizer’s COVID jab could integrate into human cellular DNA by reverse transcription
  • By producing spike protein for months and perhaps years on end, your body starts to view the SARS-CoV-2 virus as an environmental irritant rather than the potentially lethal invader that it is. This is called immune tolerance. Your body basically ignores the irritant. However, this can become deadly when your body is assaulted by replicating pathogens

How long will your body produce modified spike protein after the COVID jab? That’s been a question people have been asking ever since the rollout of the first mRNA shots.

A paper published in the Proteomics Clinical Applications journal in mid-August 20231 tried to answer that question, and it’s not great news, as the answer, for some people, as we said long before the jab was released, could be “indefinitely.” What we can say for sure is that spike is being produced for far longer than “experts” initially believed.

Fact Versus Fiction

The idea behind the mRNA jabs was that the modified RNA would trigger temporary production of a spike protein similar to that of the wild-type SARS-CoV-2 spike to induce antibodies. We were told that mRNA is fragile and doesn’t last long, which is true of natural mRNA. The mRNA in the shots, however, has been modified to resist degradation.

As explained in a mid-August 2023 Proteomics Clinical Applications paper,2 the recombinant spike found in the mRNA COVID shots “is distinguishable from the wild-type protein due to specific amino acid variations introduced to maintain the protein in a prefused state.”

And, while authorities admitted they didn’t know exactly for how long the mRNA would last, they insisted it certainly wouldn’t linger for more than a few days at most.3,4 In fact, to this day, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention website falsely maintains that “The mRNA from the vaccines is broken down within a few days after vaccination and discarded from the body.”5

Chronic immune activation can be a very serious problem, so you really don’t want your body to be producing antibodies daily for months at a time.

The spike protein is also responsible for the pathogenicity of COVID-19 and is the main driver of jab-related injuries and deaths,6 so you don’t want this spike protein to linger longer than what is necessary to trigger an initial antibody response. Unfortunately, that’s what we’re now finding.

Spike Detected for Up to Six Months

According to a recent investigation, published in the Proteomics Clinical Applications journal in mid-August 2023,7,8 recombinant spike protein was detectable in half the blood samples of jabbed individuals for at least 69 days, and up to 187 days (about six months).

To be clear, this doesn’t mean spike production ends at six months. That was just the end of the study period. What’s more, two of the proposed mechanisms of action, which I’ll review below, suggest spike production could continue indefinitely.

To make sure they were only measuring jab-related spike proteins and not spike protein from natural infection, the scientists used a mass-spectrometry test to detect a specific amino acid sequence — two prolines — found only in the jab-induced spike.

They also included two unjabbed control groups to make doubly sure — one consisted of unjabbed individuals who had never had COVID and had no antibodies; the other were unjabbed who’d had COVID and did have antibodies.

As expected, only those in the jabbed group had vaccine-derived spike protein in their blood. Only half of them had it, though, which is interesting considering Danish evidence suggesting that one-third of Pfizer’s shots were placebo. (The data for this claim were published in a March 2023 Letter to the Editor of the European Journal of Clinical Investigation.9)

So, to be clear, not everyone who got one or even more jabs will have spike production. Many, in this case half, have no detectable spike in their systems and are therefore unlikely to experience any adverse effects. That’s the good news. The bad news is that the other half do have persistent spike production, and in some, it may never stop.

Potential Mechanisms Behind Persistent Spike Production

The Proteomics Clinical Applications paper goes on to present three “likely” or potential mechanisms behind the persistent spike production — some of which are worse than others:10

1.”It is possible that the mRNA may be integrated or re-transcribed in some cells.

2.It is possible that pseudo-uridines at a particular sequence position … induce the formation of a spike protein that is always constitutively active …

3.It is possible that the mRNA-containing nanoparticle will be picked up by bacteria normally present at the basal level in the blood …” (These bacteria would then continuously produce spike protein)

Disturbingly, all three mechanisms could result in never-ending spike production (or spike activity, for as long as the spike remains in the body). Now, if spike production can end up being lifelong in some individuals, what does that mean for people who have received multiple shots containing several different mRNA sequences?

Pfizer mRNA Appears to Have Ability to Reprogram Human DNA

If mRNA is integrated or re-transcribed in cells (the first hypothesis above), that means the modified, synthetic mRNA in the jab can become part of and permanently rewrite a section of your DNA with instructions to produce the spike.

In addition to affected cells producing spike indefinitely, this genetic alteration may also be transferred to your offspring, the effects of which are wholly unknown. We could expect affected infants and children to have chronic health problems, however, and likely impaired immune response to coronaviruses, including those responsible for the common cold.

Disturbingly, the reverse transcription hypothesis has already been demonstrated in in-vitro experiments,11 so it’s not as far-fetched as fact checkers — or even the CDC — would like you to believe. According to the CDC, “These vaccines do NOT enter the nucleus of the cell where our DNA (genetic material) is located, so it cannot change or influence our genes.”12 But in vitro experiments prove otherwise.

In vitro research published in 2022 found the mRNA in Pfizer’s COVID jab could integrate into human cellular DNA by reverse transcription.

In February 2022, a research paper13 titled “Intracellular Reverse Transcription of Pfizer BioNTech COVID-19 mRNA Vaccine BNT162b2 In Vitro in Human Liver Cell Line” described how the mRNA is being integrated into human cellular DNA by reverse transcription — something that was absolutely not supposed to happen and was written off as a “conspiracy theory.”

In a nutshell, what this study found was that the genetic code of Pfizer’s COVID jab was reverse transcribed into and became part of the human liver cells used. Somehow, the shot triggers cells to produce a natural reverse transcriptase enzyme called LINE-1, which allows this reverse transcription to take place.

Genetic Integration Can Occur Through Other Means as Well

Incidentally, studies14,15 have also shown that RNA from SARS-CoV-2 can be reverse transcribed into the genome of virus-infected cells, and if viral RNA can do it, why not the synthetic RNA?

On top of that, the COVID shots have also been found to be contaminated with DNA,16 and this too could lead to genomic integration and alteration, without the need for reverse transcription. As explained by Igor Chudov:17

“Normally … the cell nucleus, where the DNA is, expresses certain DNA code based on conditions of the cell, and produces natural, human messenger RNA.

That messenger RNA travels out of the nucleus, where it is expressed into proteins needed for cell building. This is how growing organisms express different genetic programs to grow muscle cells or brain cells, etc. This process is called ‘transcription.’

For many years, Central Dogma of Molecular Biology stated that the ‘reverse transcription’ — moving genetic code from RNA back into the sacred cellular nucleus and recoding the DNA — was impossible.

Eventually, scientists realized that it is possible under various conditions … To effect reverse transcription, enzymes called ‘reverse transcriptases’ are needed. One of them is called LINE-1. Apparently, per [the] study, the Pfizer mRNA vaccine causes cells to produce that LINE-1 enzyme …

As I explained in response to a questioner: Pfizer mRNA vaccine changes our genetic code that determines how our organisms operate, that you inherited from your mom and dad.

Now your DNA was changed from what your mom and dad gave you, by adding a little mysterious ‘edit’ from Pfizer. Your organism acts in accordance with your DNA program, and now, well, the program has been hacked and modified by Pfizer.

Considering that Sars-Cov-2 ‘spike protein’ has cancer code from Moderna 2017’ patent 9,587,003,18 it is imperative to find out the implications of this reverse transcription, and whether the vaccinated now have any undesirable genetic code embedded into their DNA.

Of particular interest is whether this mRNA-induced reverse transcription affects the ‘germ line,’ such as eggs and sperm cells, and whether it also affects the fetus of pregnant mothers.”

Can Chronic Spike Production Explain Immune Tolerance?

As noted in Chudov’s August 31, 2023, Substack article, in which he reviews the ramifications of the hypotheses put forth in the Proteomics Clinical Applications paper,19 Nos. 1 and 2 may also explain why jabbed individuals are so prone to COVID reinfection.

In short, by producing spike protein for months and perhaps years on end, your body starts to view the SARS-CoV-2 virus as an environmental irritant rather than the potentially lethal invader that it is. This is called immune tolerance and is how allergies typically work.

Basically, your body simply ignores the irritant, and you suffer the symptoms for as long as the irritant is present. However, immune tolerance can become deadly when your body is assaulted by replicating pathogens and fails to launch an appropriate immune response.

Resources for Those Injured by the COVID Jab

Autopsy assessmentscase reports of harmsjob statistics, disability claims, life insurance claims and all-cause mortality statistics all tell the same story: The COVID jabs are having a devastating effect.20

If you got one or more jabs and suffered an injury, first and foremost, never ever take another COVID booster, another mRNA gene therapy shot or regular vaccine. You need to end the assault on your body.

The same goes for anyone who has taken one or more COVID jabs and had the good fortune of not experiencing debilitating side effects. Your health may still be impacted long-term, so don’t take any more shots. You’re also playing Russian Roulette every time you get another dose, so quit before your luck runs out.

When it comes to treatment, one of the most important aspects is to detoxify the spike. As explained by Dr. Peter McCullough in an August 26, 2023, America Out Loud podcast and accompanying article:21

“The spike protein is responsible for the pathogenicity of the SARS-CoV-2 infection and drives the development of adverse events, injuries, disabilities, and death after vaccination through immunologic and thrombotic mechanisms.

The long-lasting spike protein has been found in the brain, heart, liver, kidneys, ovaries, testicles, and other vital organs at autopsy in cases of death after vaccination. In the case of vaccine-induced thrombotic injury, the spike protein has been found within the blood clot itself.

Thus, there is a strong rationale for considering residual SARS-CoV-2 spike protein as a treatment target in post-COVID-19 and vaccine injury syndromes …

While specific syndromes (cardiovascular, neurological, endocrine, thrombotic, immunological) will require additional therapies, we propose the clinical rationale for a base detoxification regimen of oral nattokinase, bromelain, and curcumin for patients with post-acute sequelae from SARS-CoV-2 infection and COVID-19 vaccination.

The empiric regimen can be continued for 3-12 months or more and be guided by clinical parameters:

Nattokinase 2000 FU (100) mg orally twice a day without food

Bromelain 500 mg orally once a day without food

Curcumin 500 mg orally twice a day (nano, liposomal, or with piperine additive suggested)”

McCullough and two other coauthors recently published this advice in the Journal of American Physicians and Surgeons.22 Personally, I would recommend using lumbrokinase rather than nattokinase (or rotate between both), as lumbrokinase is a far more potent fibrinolytic enzyme. You can learn more about the use of these proteolytic enzymes in “Are Enzymes a Key to COVID Endothelial Injury?

Other supporting compounds mentioned in McCullough’s paper include N-acetylcysteine (NAC) at a dose of 400 mg to 1,000 mg per day, ivermectin and hydroxychloroquine (both of which bind to and help eliminate spike protein), selenium, Irish sea moss, green tea extract (Camellia sinensis), Nigella sativa (black cumin), dandelion extract (Taraxacum officinale) and glutathione.

For a more comprehensive treatment plan, see the Front Line COVID-19 Critical Care Alliance (FLCCC) I-RECOVER protocol. It’s continuously updated as more data become available, so be sure to download the latest version straight from the FLCCC website at covid19criticalcare.com.23 Additional detox remedies can be found in “World Council for Health Reveals Spike Protein Detox.”

Posted on September 12, 2023 by yucalandia

Sept 12, 2023

COVID Booster News:

Pfizer & Moderna are still chasing the all the rapidly mutating SARS-Co-V-2 virus subvariants … as they release a “new” set of boosters this Friday – by offering us vaccine-boosters that were designed for the COVID substrain infections from almost a year ago … as today’s “new” boosters are not a particulary good fit with the prevalent COVID substrain infections circulating right now.

Top virology scientists are offering some interesting advice:

” Two years ago, with the pandemic raging and vaccines dramatically cutting serious illness and death, there was little doubt about their value for everyone. …

Yet now … We’re in a very different situation than we were a few years ago.”

Remember how Pfizer & Moderna used to TRUMPET “93% Efficacy !”… “96% Efficacy” … Notice that there are NO big claims for the this round of “new” boosters – because these year-old versions, have very little proof of being supposedly highly-effective against the current prevalent COVID substrains.

Especially noteworthy is how last May, the new boosters offered some early initial small reductions in hospitalization and serious COVID disease risk, yet, that protection waned to just under 50% for both between 60 – 119 days, and then:

… It plummeted to a miserable 24% protection at 6 months.

Conclusions: … Where it made a LOT of sense to get the first COVID vaccines 2 years ago , instead, now … with all the rapidly mutating SARS subvariants out there … top experts are questioning the value of this latest round of COVID boosters.

Top experts are saying: If you are seriously old (over age 79) or seriously immuno-compromised, then consider getting the “new” booster … but realize that you can’t trust its protection … and you still need to wear a tight-fitting N-95 mask when around COVID infected people.

Dr. Steven M. Fry
Ph.D. in Chemistry, Public Health & Environment, and Laboratory Measurement Science

Annular Eclipse Coming to Yucatan

yucalandiaSep 11Aug. 22, 2023
For people who enjoy looking up, Yucatecans in Celestun & Halachó will be right in the optimal path to see this year’s Annular Eclipse … October 14, 2023 – at 12:21.57 midday.Merida will see only a more partial Annular eclipse (94.6%) at 12:24 mid-day. The path with yellow dots (see map below) shows the best views of the 2023 Annular (partial) Eclipse … paired with an approximate image of what it will look like. (seen through protective lenses) Sidelight: The path with the purple dots is for NEXT YEAR’s big 2024 Total Eclipse’s best viewing path. … Thanks NASA!= = = =
Details for BEST viewing (because Merida is slightly out of the best path):The earliest Yucatan full eclipse viewing starts at CELESTUN … @12:20 :34 PM for the start of the total eclipse (C2) … with a FULL 4 minutes 41 seconds of eclipse !Best Viewing in Yucatan: (cont)… then, after Celestun … on to Halachó @ 12:21 :57 PMThen the VERY BEST viewing of the annular eclios in Yucatan …of 4 min 42 sec of eclipse (the longest in Yucatan) Maxcanú @ 12:22 :06 PMFollowed by … Samahil @ 12:22 :06 PM
… Kinchil @ 12:22 :21 PM
… Tamchen @ 12:22 :23 PM
… San Antonio Chum @ 12:22 :50 PM
… Muna @ 12:23 :15 PM … 3 minutes 30 seconds of eclipse … (note the trend?)… Hunucmá @ 12:23 :25 AM … as seen from the cenote !?!??… Sacalum @ 12:23 :53 PM
… Ticul @ 12:24 :07 PM … when buying pottery or shoes ?… Oxkutzcab @ 12:24 :40 PM … when buying some incredible citrus fruit in bulk…. Akil @ 12:25 :05 PM… Tecax @ 12:25 :24 PM … with just 2 minutes 3 seconds of viewing time.https://eclipse2024.org/2023eclipse/eclipse_cities/states.php?state=Yucatan&country=Mexico
Cheers,
Dr. Steven M. Fry* * * * * * *
Feel free to copy any of our materials, yet please also give appropriate credit, by citing Yucalandia.com.

Chichen Viejo Finally Opens after 6 Years

Posted on September 3, 2023 by yucalandia

Sept. 3, 2023
Do you enjoy shifting your perspectives?

Consider how the stories reported by modern “news” outlets, miss so many key facts & key details, that they often don’t even come close to reality.

= = = =
As we age, we slowly become our stories …

Some are amusing, others full of striking details, yet others form the foundations of who we are – molded by memorable times with dear friends.

One of those times was just highlighted this past Saturday, by AMLO’s ribbon-cutting ceremony to (finally!) inaugurate the opening of “Chichen Viejo.

The Chichen Viejo complex holds special significance for me, because it marked the last trip Sidney Hollander (‘Calman’ = INAH’s top Maya Calendar expert for 25 yrs) & I took with Dr. Peter Schmidt … aka the grand old man ~ Chief Archeologist~ of Chichen Itza … and Regional INAH Director.

As possibly his last official trip to Chichen Itza, Peter (Herr Profesor Doktor Schmid – INAH’s Regional Director) invited Sid & I to drive him out to see his last INAH project … the completion of restoring the modest arch at the entrance of the real “Chichen Viejo” complex, 6 years ago in 2017.

In the longer view, Site Director, Dr. Schmid initiated what INAH calls “an unprecedented intervention” into restorations of the Chichen Viejo complex during the 1990’s … finally culminating in completion of his efforts with the 2017 restoration of the entry-way arch.

Curiously, with the completion of the arch, the entire “Chichen Viejo” complex of structures, altars, labyrinth-buildings was DONE … completely ready for tourists to enter … Paved pathways completed, bathrooms installed, INAH plaques in place describing every major feature … and even the trash cans were in place for the tourists to dispose of their paleta-wrappers …

Yet, due to supposed “budget restrictions”, the completed “Chichen Viejo” remained isolated, far down a closed pathe to the public, due to “Insufficient pesos to pay for guards to control the turistas.”

Fortunately, NOW, with AMLO’s increasing INAH’s regional budget in Yucatan, they FINALLY OPENED Chichen Viejo … after the 6 yr. “pause”. …. Sadly, because both Peter and Sid have died in the meantime, neither of Yucatan’s grand old men of Archeology got to see it opened to the public.

Details:
Yes, lots of gringos mistakenly think of “Chichen Viejo” as the complex of buildings with El Observatorio, a small ball court, several finished temples, a small pyramid that’s still a pile of rubble, along another plaza & building with glyphs describing some past Lord who held a big Fire Ceremony … yet those gringos misunderstand.

Instead, the real “Chichen Viejo” is a different ~older~ walled complex of blgs with a Templo de Falos (Phallus-es – Phalli), a low, distinctive Turtle altar, a labyrinth building … and a nice distinctive-for Chichen Itza archway entrance (shown above). Yet despite it’s completion in 2017, the real Chichen Viejo complex languished – ready to open – unused – for at least 6 intervening years.

In the foto below, note that there was a sac bé (white road in the Mayan language) that connects the ceremonial complex of Chichén Itzá with the area of ??Chichén Viejo… Then note that “Atlantes” (see anthropomorphic figures below),jealously guard the secrets of the Chichen Viejo complex, that include a platform in the shape of a turtle and the Palace of the Phalluses.

“Although in other places in the Yucatan Peninsula there are more than 100 phallic figures, Chichén Viejo is the only one that has a palace dedicated to the male member, because the pre-Hispanic inhabitants believed that this is how the earth was fertilized,”
José Antonio Keb explained to Efe, INAH custodian in the archaeological zone of Chichén Itzá.

NOW … as of last Saturday INAH finally opened it – in a ceremony presided over by AMLO … who gets the credit, meanwhile almost all of the current English language “press” reports give few details, and literally no acknowledgement of the people who actually did the work this past 3 decades.

Notice: As of August 2023, the archaeoligical sites of Uxmal, Kabah, X’lapak, Sayil, and Labná are open to the public. The caves of Loltún remain closed until further notice.

Depending on how you get your information about Yucatán, you might know that both Chichén Itzá and Uxmal were declared World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. What you may not know is that, although the declaration mentions the “prehispanic town of Uxmal” by name, it actually includes other sites as well, located along what is known as the Puuc Route. Currently, the Puuc Route is a 40-kilometer journey that starts in Uxmal (80 km from Mérida) and ends at the archaeological site of Labná (yes, currently…we’ll get to that later). However, its name refers to the Puuc region (Puuc means “hill” or “mound” in Maya) of the Yucatán state and the countless archaeological sites in it; of those,  only six of them are open to the public, from Oxkintok (6 km southeast of Maxcanú) to Chacmultún (11 km southwest of Tekax). 

What’s so special about the Puuc region?

The most obvious aspect is the presence of hills and mounds. Visitors from other places are often surprised or puzzled to see, from the elevated terraces of Mérida, there seems to be no elevation in sight. However, as one travels south, a “mountain range” about 100 meters above sea level emerges seemingly out of nowhere. The land here is red and fertile, making it one of the most important citrus-growing areas in Mexico (with Mexico being among the world’s leaders in citrus cultivation).

Historically, the Puuc region is also home to a very distinctive Maya architectural style, which is highly ornate, yet very geometric and horizontal at the same time. The intricate stone carvings you will see in this area will leave you awestruck for entirely different reasons than those in sites like Chichén Itzá or Ek Balam, especially when you remind yourself that this level of detail was crafted without the use of metal tools: everything was crafted carving stone against stone.

Why visit the archaeological sites on the Puuc route

Individually, each of the archaeological sites in the Puuc region offers something worth seeing in person. Collectively, they provide a clearer picture of the technical, architectural, and cultural grandeur of the Maya civilization that flourished south of the state. Grand Ball Courts, monumental arches (yes, more than one), and elevated palaces are just some of the surprises that these sites hold for those who venture to explore them.

 Although the official Puuc Route only includes the following five sites, Oxkintok and Chacmultún, located at both ends of the route, are also part of the region and are worth visiting.

 The official Puuc route

Officially, the Puuc Route consists of the 60-kilometer stretch of road that goes from Uxmal to the Loltún Caves, and it includes the archaeological sites of Kabah (22 km from Uxmal), Sayil (9.5 km from Kabah), Xlapak (5 km from Sayil), and Labná (3.4 km from Xlapak). Due to the closures caused by the pandemic, floods in the southern part of the state caused by various tropical storms, and other factors, the Loltún Caves are currently closed, and there is no scheduled date for their reopening. In this article, we will focus on the sites within the Puuc region that are currently open to the public.

The sites on the Ruta Puuc or Puuc Route

Entering Labná, amidst the trees, you will come across a building where you can easily recognize the characteristics of the Puuc style: highly geometric, horizontally oriented, and richly ornamented. Right there, you can get a close up look at the Junquillos, which are stone cylinders reminiscent of the Bajareque (wooden sticks used in traditional Maya homes), as well as reliefs, mosaics, sculptures, and Chaac (rain god) masks. From there, a small elevated Sacbé (walkway) will lead you to the most famous structure of this site: the Arch of Labná. Monumental and highly florid, it’s a perfect spot for taking photos, but make sure to get closer and examine it in detail: within the nooks and crannies of the reliefs, you can still see authentic remnants of the pre-Hispanic Maya paint with which it was adorned. 

Maya meaning of “Labná:” Old or dilapidated house (Laab Naj)

  • Distance from Uxmal to Labná: 40 km (about 25 miles)
  • General admission fee: $70 pesos (see Admission and fees)
  • Period of habitation of Labná: 200 BCE – 1000 CE (Late Preclassic to Early Postclassic).
  • Apogee of Labná: 800 – 1000 CE (Late Classic to Early Postclassic).
  • An interesting fact about Labná: The Mirador (lookout point), an elevated structure featuring a more simplistic architectural style compared to the rest of the site, has a slotted crest that will surely catch your eye. The slots allow the air to circulate freely, protecting the structure during storms and hurricanes.

Xlapak is the smallest site on the Puuc route, as well as the easiest to explore. Despite being populated more recently than other sites on the route (and for a shorter period), its structures are far less preserved, which gives you a clearer idea of the arduous and delicate restoration processes carried out on Maya constructions. 

The Xlapak archaeological site is laid out as a 900-meter circuit connecting the structures that have been discovered. Since Xlapak is also one of the least visited sites in the area, the circuit doubles as a nature trail, where you can listen to and observe different types of animals and plants in a more unmanicured setting.

  • Maya meaning of “Xlapak:” Old or dilapidated walls  (Xla’ Pak’)
  • Distance from Uxmal to Xlapak: 37 km (about 23 miles)
  • General admission fee: $70 pesos (see Admission and fees)
  • Period of habitation of Xlapak: 750 – 950 CE (Late Classic).
  • An interesting fact about Xlapak: One of the buildings in the circuit has several small plastic “mosaics” with black and white triangles attached to it. Site researchers placed them to monitor the “settlement” of the construction. By observing these mosaics’ alignment, they can detect any deformation occurring over time, which could indicate potential structural issues that may lead to collapse. 

Sayil

Whether you’re coming from Xlapak or Kabah, Sayil will seem like an extreme change. After marveling at the fascinating stelae on display at the entrance of the site, you’ll feel that the path to the first structure seems longer than in other archaeological zones. But rest assured, the longish walk will be worth it, as you’ll be greeted by the impressive Palacio (Palace) or Gran Palacio. True to its name, this three-story structure with approximately 90 rooms will leave you in awe. Along its 85-meter façade, you’ll be able to admire different levels of preservation, which provide insight into its interior layout (though the rooms are not accessible). Don’t forget to peek at its backside; the partially hidden stone details, adorned by the jungle, make it look like something out of an adventure movie.

While the Palacio is Sayil’s most iconic view, it’s far from being the only remarkable feature. The site includes several other buildings, such as El Mirador (similar to the one in Labná), and the fascinating Templo de las Jambas (Temple of the Jambs), which appears to be partially buried, offering a close-up view of the intricate carvings decorating the door frames (jambs). 

  • Maya meaning of “Sayil:” Place of the leafcutter ants (Saayil)
  • General admission fee: $70 pesos  (see Admission and fees)
  • Distance from Uxmal to Sayil: 32 km (about 20 miles)
  • Period of habitation of Sayil: 800 – 1000 AD (Late Classic).
  • An interesting fact about Sayil:  A short distance down a trail from the Palacio in Sayil, there is another stela called “Lord of the Phalluses” or Nojoch Keep, where “Nojoch” means large, and “Keep” refers to the male reproductive organ. Needless to say, if you or your companions are uncomfortable with disproportionate anatomical representations, it’s best not to take the detour. However, it’s essential to understand the significance of these representations in the context of the Maya culture. For the Maya, fertility was of utmost importance, understood as both the land’s productivity and the labor force in the form of children. In the Puuc region, where the scarcity of cenotes and the complete absence of rivers left the population’s access to water at the mercy of the gods, the presence of monuments and phallic representations was meant to stimulate rain and ensure agricultural prosperity.

Kabah is identified as the second most important archaeological site in the Puuc region after Uxmal, and soon it will be the location of the Puuc Archaeological Museum, which is scheduled to open at the end of this year. Your tour will begin at one of the most impressive structures you can visit and admire up close: the Codz Pop (Kots’ Poop, or rolled mat), which is a building whose façade is completely covered with stone masks of the rain god, Chaac. At this point, you’ll sense that Kabah is a remarkably comprehensive site and that you have already seen many impressive things. However, the site extends beyond the road, where you will encounter the Great Pyramid and an arch that, while less adorned than the one in Labná, is much larger in scale.

 Kabah is renowned as the second most significant archaeological site in the Puuc region, just after Uxmal. Moreover, it is soon to be home to the Puuc Archaeological Museum, expected to open at the end of this year. Your journey will begin at what is arguably one of the most impressive structures you can get up close to: the Codz Pop (Kots’ Poop, or rolled-up mat). This building’s façade is entirely covered in stone masks of the rain god, Chaac. As you stand before them (and at every stop on this route), don’t forget to remind yourself of a fascinating fact I mentioned earlier: all these carvings and constructions were created without using metal tools.

Your exploration will continue as you ascend to the top of the elevated temple and then descend once again. By this point, you’ll likely feel that Kabah is a remarkably comprehensive site, having witnessed many awe-inspiring features. But the wonders of Kabah extend across the road, where you’ll find the Great Pyramid and a monumental arch. Although more understated in decoration compared to the Arch at Labná, it is significantly taller. This arch marks the city’s entrance at the end of the sacbé (white road) connecting Kabah to Uxmal, which is scheduled to be restored and open to the public, though no definitive date has been set.

 Maya meaning of “Kabah:” Lord of the powerful hand or (figuratively) iron fist (K’ab Aj)

  • Distance from Uxmal to Kabah: 22 km (about 14 miles)
  • General admission fee: $75 pesos  (see Admission and fees)
  • Period of habitation of Kabah: 400 BCE – 1000 CE (Late Preclassic to Early Postclassic).
  • Apogee of Kabah: 750 – 900 CE (Classic).
  • An interesting fact about Kabah: Unlike some archaeological sites named after the arrival of the Spanish, Kabah’s name is pre-Hispanic, as it is mentioned in the Chilam Balam de Chumayel (one of the few surviving Maya books). And a bonus fact: According to the dwarf of Uxmal legend, the magical being who built the Pyramid of the Magician in a single night was originally from the neighboring city of Kabah.

 Uxmal

Uxmal is undoubtedly the capital of the Puuc region and a site that deserves at least a couple of hours to fully explore. You absolutely can’t miss the Pyramid of the Magician; first, because it stands at an impressive height of 35 meters, and second, because it’s exactly by the site’s only entrance. Take a moment to admire its oval-shaped base, a unique feature among Maya sites. This is the very pyramid referenced in the legend of the dwarf from Uxmal. However, contrary to the legend, we know that the Pyramid of the Magician wasn’t built in a single night. Like many other Maya buildings, it underwent several construction stages over the course of its centuries-long existence.

Though you can’t climb the Pyramid of the Magician, you’ll still enjoy a privileged view of the entire area from the Governor’s Palace, considered by many as the most extraordinary example of pre-Columbian architecture in all of the Americas, let alone the Maya region. From there, you’ll not only see the Great Pyramid nearby, along with the Palomar (the Dovecote) and its intricate crest, but also witness the thickness of the jungle that surrounds the accessible site, concealing the vast expanse yet to be explored.

  • Maya meaning of “Uxmal:” The three times built or the place where the harvest is abundant.
  • General admission fee: $531 pesos (foreigners), $240 pesos (nationals) (see Admission and fees)
  • Period of habitation of Uxmal: 800 BCE – 1150 CE (Middle Preclassic to Late Postclassic).
  • Apogee of Uxmal: 700 – 950 CE (Classic).
  • An interesting fact about Uxmal: The intricate crest of the Palomar (named after the birds that sought refuge in its crevices) casts the shadow of a serpent that crawls along the base of the building during the winter solstice, around December 21st.

 Other sites in the Puuc region

 Oxkintok 

The existence of Oxkintok has been known since the 16th century; however, it remains one of the least-visited sites in the region. It is among the oldest in the state and boasts one of the most ancient ball courts known to us. Its construction style predates the Puuc’s heyday, reflecting influences from other pre-Hispanic sites further towards central Mexico due to its temporal and geographical context. Notably, Oxkintok stands out for its anthropomorphic (human-shaped) columns and its labyrinth, whose purpose remains a mystery.

  • Maya meaning of “Oxkintok:” Uncertain, but currently proposed to be “the city of the three flint suns.”
  • General admission fee: $70 pesos (see Admission and fees).
  • Period of habitation of Oxkintok: 500 BCE – 1500 CE (Late Preclassic to Late Postclassic).
  • Apogee of Oxkintok: 300 – 550 CE (Classic).
  • Nearest current city: Maxcanú.

Chacmultún

The city of Chacmultún was, simply put, the most important trade center in the Puuc region during the Postclassic period (between 900 and 1500 CE. When you visit this site, the reddish hues of the buildings’ stones (which gave it its name) are sure to catch your eye, as will its monumentality. The structures are built on hills and artificial terraces, making them even more imposing and offering beautiful views of the surrounding vegetation.

  • Maya meaning of “Chacmultún:” Mound of red stones.
  • General admission fee: $70 pesos (see Admission and fees).
  • Period of habitation of Chacmultún: 300 BCE – 1500 CE (Late Preclassic to Late Postclassic).
  • Apogee of Chacmultún: 800 – 1000 CE (Classic and Postclassic).
  • Nearest current city: Tekax.

Admission and fees 

  • Admission to the archaeological sites along the Puuc Route is free for students of all levels, as well as for children under 13 years old and adults over 60. Proof of identity is required to get the discount.
  • On Sundays, admission is free for Mexican nationals and residents with valid ID.
  • Please note that the payment for admission to all the archaeological sites in the Puuc region must be made in cash.
  • The National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) manages all the archaeological sites open to the public in the Puuc region, and their admission fees range from $70 to $90 pesos. However, in the case of Uxmal, there is an additional fee that must be paid to the Patronato de las Unidades de Servicios Culturales y Turísticos del Estado de Yucatán (CULTUR). The fees are paid separately at different windows, and both are necessary to access the site.
  • The CULTUR fee for access to the Uxmal archaeological site is $150 pesos for Mexican visitors and $441 pesos for foreign visitors. Yucatecan visitors are exempt from this fee. 

Is it possible to do all of the Puuc Route in one day?

It’s not impossible to visit every site on the Ruta Puuc (Uxmal, Kabah, Sayil, Xlapak and Labná)  in a single day. However, attempting to do so can be exhausting (especially considering the high temperatures). It is also important to consider your level of interest in each of the sites: if you only want to see them for yourself and take some photos, you won’t need much time at each one.

If you are truly passionate and want to explore them more thoroughly, it is recommended to take your time and spend at least one night in the area; if you also want to visit Oxkintok and Chacmultún at either end of the Ruta Puuc, you’ll be better off planning at least two nights along the route. This will also give you the opportunity to incorporate more activities (and more variety) into your journey.

How to get to (and around) the Puuc Route

Depending on your travel style, you have three options for transportation. The first option is to rent a car, which will give you greater independence and flexibility to move around and make stops as you please. As you can see here, the distances are not very long, and the roads are mostly in good condition, although some sections may be a bit narrower than ideal. If you choose this option, don’t forget to bring along a print issue of Yucatán Today to help you with maps, as your cell phone signal might fade regardless of your provider.

The second option is to hire a private tour or a driver. You’ll still have independence and flexibility, plus you won’t have to worry about driving yourself. If this is the option that appeals to you the most, make sure to carefully evaluate with your agency or provider to ensure that the tour aligns with what you really want to see and experience. If the tour includes guidance within the archaeological sites, make sure you are well aware of the kind of information your guide can provide.

 Is adventure and unpredictability more your thing? There are collective taxis (combis or vans) that connect the main towns in the southern part of the state. If you seek help from locals, they can guide you in finding transportation from one place to another. Keep in mind that these vans often do not have fixed schedules, and they may not go exactly where you want to go, but if you’re open to the unexpected, the experience can be very enriching.

Guided tours of Uxmal and the Puuc Route

The only archaeological site in the Puuc region where you will find guides available for hire on the spot is Uxmal. The guide fees range from $600 to $900 pesos, depending on the language you need; you can partner with other travelers and pay the guide for a joint tour. The site guides will show you details that you might not be able to appreciate on your own and provide explanations based on the oral tradition of the archaeological site.

 To have guided tours of the rest of the archaeological sites in the Puuc region, you should hire a guide in advance, either from Mérida or with the site guides at Uxmal.

Various local travel agencies organize group excursions with daily departures from Mérida, specifically to the sites of Uxmal and Kabah, leaving in the morning and returning in the afternoon.

 What else to do during your trip to Uxmal and the Puuc Route

Here are some activity options you can combine with your visit to the archaeological sites of the Puuc region, listed by location from west to east:

  • Ya’axche Restaurant and Culinary Workshop in Halachó. On weekends, delight in the regional typical cuisine at their restaurant; on weekdays, make a reservation to participate in the preparation of your own food. Learn more here.
  • Aktun Usil caves in Maxcanú. These recently discovered caves feature altars, ceramics, pottery, and other Maya remains. Aktun Usil is also known for its depth of over 60 meters and hieroglyphics on the ceiling. The tour takes two hours and is available throughout the week from 7 am to 10 pm. Learn more here.
  • Calcehtok caves. At these caves, located near Oxkintok, you can rappel and climb to see natural formations resembling human and animal figures. Learn more here.
  • Choco-Story. This eco-museum is dedicated to the history of cacao and chocolate, from Mexico to the world, with a focus on the environment and a tribute to the Maya people. Learn more here.
  • The Planetarium at The Lodge at Uxmal. Enjoy a 30-minute documentary projection about the Maya and their concept of time. Besides being highly educational, it provides a pleasant  (air-conditioned) respite from the heat of the archaeological sites. 
  • The Lodge at Uxmal Land Rover tour. Take a unique tour around the surroundings of the Uxmal archaeological site in a vintage Land Rover; choosing one will be just the beginning of the adventure! Learn more here.
  • Mirador de Muna. This small rest stop/lookout point offers much more than meets the eye, including a panoramic view of everything that lies at the foothills of the Sierrita; in other words, Yucatán as far as the eye can see. 
  • The Santa Elena Museum. This tiny museum, known as the Museum of the Mummies, features a fascinating exhibition on the Puuc region and the Caste War, or Maya Social War. It’s a short, but very interesting visit. Learn more here.
  • Ticul. The city the Sierrita is named after is renowned for its talented potters and shoemakers. Learn more here.
  • Maní, a Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town). The first Magical Town in southern Yucatán offers history, nature, legends, cuisine, and stingless bees. Learn more here.
  • Tekax, a Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town). This more recently named Pueblo Mágico offers a wide range of extreme activities for adventurers of all levels, along with history and breathtaking views. Learn more here.

Accommodations on the Puuc route

$$$

The Lodge at Uxmal
Uxmal
https://www.mayaland.com/

Hacienda Uxmal
Uxmal
https://www.mayaland.com/ 

$$
Uxmal Resort 
Uxmal
999 930 0390

The Pickled Onion
Santa Elena
997 111 7922

Nueva Altia
Santa Elena
998 106 6822

$

Hostal y Camping El Eden
Muna
997 115 9448

Where to eat on the Puuc Route

Uxmal

The Lodge at Uxmal

Muna 

Restaurante Chuun Yaax Che
Calle 13 #201-B x 26 y 28, Muna
Tel. 997 118 9238

Restaurante Lol Pich
Calle 26 #125, San Sebastian, Muna
Tel. 999 379 1014

Restaurante La Mestiza de Uxmal
Calle 26 x 1 y 3, Muna
Tel. 997 140 8485

Restaurante La Finca Puuc 
Carr. a Umán (a 200 m del libramiento), Muna 
Tel. 999 222 2375

Santa Elena

Restaurante La Central 
Calle 21 x 20 y 22, Santa Elena

Restaurante La Puerta Azul
Calle 27 x 20 y 22, Santa Elena
Tel. 997 156 2237

Restaurante y Hotel The Pickled Onion
Santa Elena
997 111 7922

On the way to Mérida

Hotel Hacienda Temozón 
Carretera Mérida-Uxmal Km 182, Temozón Sur
Tel. 999 923 8089

Restaurante Tío Charlie 
Calle 21 x 12, Molas
Tel. 999 414 8755
FB: Tío Charlie Restaurante

Aside from world-famous sites like Chichén ItzáUxmal, or Calakmul, the Yucatán Peninsula’s more obscure ancient sites are often difficult to reach.

Temple at the archaeological site of El Tabasqueño, one of the dozens of archaeological sites on the Yucatán Peninsula. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Inspired by the idea of La Ruta Puuc, which was first promoted in the late 1950s, we present our very own archaeological circuit in the state of Campeche. We call it La Ruta de Los Chenes.

Similar structures in Dzibilnocac’s Palacio can be found throughout Campeche. Their highly impractical design suggests that their use was almost entirely ceremonial. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Nicknamed “La República de los Chenes,” Los Chenes also refers to a geographical area made up by several communities including Hopelchén, Komchén and Dziblachén — which all share the suffix Chen, meaning watering hole or well in Yucatec-Maya.

The further you delve south on the Yucatán Peninsula, the more likely is that you will run into exotic fauna, such as this lovely hocofaisán (Crax Rubra). Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

Like with La Ruta Puuc, La Ruta de Los Chenes can be covered in a single day if you start early enough. But you will likely require an overnight stay if you want to include Uxmal or Santa Rosa Xtampak. 

A front facing view of Hochob’s exquisite Monster of the Earth facade portal Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The circuit can be started from either Mérida or Campeche and includes the archaeological sites of Chunhuhub, Tohcok, Xcalumkín, Kankí, plus Santa Rosa Xtampak, for the ambitious explorer. All of these archaeological sites are open to the public but are extremely under-visited, so don’t be surprised if you find yourself alone in one or all of these spots.

Map of some of the most impressive archaeological sites in the Chenes region. Map: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Like La Ruta Puuc, La Ruta de Los Chenes takes its name from the dominant architectural style of the region, though the influence of other styles is readily visible, especially in the more northern sites. 

As with La Ruta Puuc, there is no “right” order to visit these sites, but if you want to make the most of your day, we suggest the following order. Also, before we begin, remember to fill up your tank whenever you have the chance, as sometimes gas stations in the area run out of petrol and can be few and far between.

Chunhuhub

Chunhuhub’s largest and only restored structure, “El Palacio.” Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Meaning “next to the root” in Yucatec-Maya, Chunhuhub is like many sites in the region, having apparently reached its zenith sometime in the 5th century. It had likely been occupied for several hundred years before that. The site has many structures, though only its main palace has been restored.

The remains of what was likely once a ceremonial chamber towards the back of the “El Palacio” complex. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

It is also possible to observe several stelae preserved in a small hut next to the ticketing booth (which is also a small hut). The facilities are quite good and have adequate bathrooms and running water. Admission is free.

Santa Rosa Xtampak

Santa Rosa Xtampak may be difficult to get to but is very much worth the effort. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Santa Rosa Xtampak is the heavy hitter of the Chenes route. It is believed that it was one of the most important city-states in the entire region and held under its yoke at least a dozen smaller communities. The site boasts several pyramids, residential complexes, and a structure that resembles Chenes’ Monster of the Earth facade but is known as the Snake Mouth Portal.

At the very top of El Palacio, it is still possible to make out some of the temple’s original stuccowork. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The road to the site is treacherous and full of potholes, so make sure your vehicle is up to the challenge. Cellphone reception in the area is sketchy at best. If you decide to include Santa Rosa Xtampak in your itinerary, consider spending the night in the nearby town of Hopelchén. The entrance fee to the site is 45 pesos

Tohcok

Red paint depicting an anthropomorphic creature carrying what is likely a shield engaged in a ritualistic ceremony is all that remains of Tohcok’s murals — though it is striking nonetheless. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Tohcok is a recently restored site just a few kilometers from Hopelchén. In 1951, Tohcok was rediscovered and documented by Edwin Shook and the Russian-born Tatiana Proskouriakoff, one of the first and greatest women in Mesoamerican archaeology. In the Yucatec-Maya language, Tohcok roughly translates as “the place of the precious flint knife.” Though the site itself is relatively small, it is jam packed with fabulous vaulted structures and even frescoes depicting anthropomorphic creatures in red paint.

Tohcok’s Puuc palatial complex, simply known as Structure I. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine 

The facades of the temples of Tohcok make ample reference to the sky god Itzamná as well as the rain god Chaac and the god of maize, Yum-Kaax. Entrance to Tohcok is free of charge. 

Xcalumkín

El Templo de Los Cilindros in Xcalumkín, Campeche exhibits many of the hallmarks of this region’s architecture. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

There is debate regarding the meaning of the name Xcalumkín, as some specialists insist that it roughly translates as “the place of good soil that receives the sun,” while others’ translations are closer to “window/entrance of the sun.” The site is among several rolling hills, some of which were used by the Maya as natural platforms for temples. Chenes and Puuc architecture are on full display, which makes perfect sense considering their geography.

Xcalumkín’s Puuc architecture and its beautiful vistas make it the perfect destination for a day trip. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Driving toward the site, you will notice several other hills, many of which also sport the remains of ancient temples at their summits. Walking through these fields is not advisable, but not impossible. If you have a decent telephoto lens, we advise photographing them from the road, as encountering a snake would be no fun. Entrance to the sight is free, and ample parking spaces and bathroom amenities exist.

Kankí

During the first couple of days of May, at the height of the dry season, the sun passes directly behind the eyes of this mask, making it resemble the Solar fertility deity known as Kin Ich Ahau. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The archaeological site of Kankí shares its name with a nearby community in the municipality of Tenabo. It is likely named after a local species of agave, recognizable for its small yellow flowers. The site is full of impressive structures, notably an immense ceremonial complex adorned with Chaac roof combs (not your typical Puuc-style hook-nosed profiles). Your GPS navigation app of choice will likely be of little help in finding the site.

Keep in mind that the terrain on the way to Kankí can be quite rough and that not all vehicles may be up to the task. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The site is well hidden among corn fields. To make things even more complicated, the signage is poor and feels almost deliberately obtuse. Follow the signs as best you can, but when you come across the third one, just ignore it and go straight to the smaller road instead of continuing on the road that circumvents the entire field. Make sure to drive slowly; the road is not much more than a path, and getting stuck here would be pretty straightforward. Entrance to the site is free of charge. 

Other fascinating sites including HochobEl TabasqueñoDzibilnocac, and of course Edzná are also in the region but have been left out of this route given their location further south. To learn more about these sites and many others check out our extensive list of archaeology articles.

The Five-Story Building in Edzná, Campeche. Photo: Luis Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Remember to bring along plenty of water, mosquito repellant, and lunch, as convenience stores are not exactly plentiful in this area of the Peninsula. Happy travels!

Mexicana to make a comeback after 13 years, this time under military control

ByCarlos Rosado van der Gracht

August 11, 2023

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A plane from Mexicana Airlines takes off in 2008. Photo: Eddie Maloney / Wikimedia Commons

Mexicana, once Mexico’s largest airline, is set to return to the skies after 13 years.

The airline says it will be ready to start selling tickets and kick off operations sometime next year to 20 domestic destinations, including Mérida, Puerto Vallarta, Los Cabos, and Laredo.

The airline, which will be owned entirely by the Mexican state, will have its day-to-day operation run by the national defense department, which already controls security in several of the nation’s main airports

The government said tickets would be up to 15% cheaper than their commercial competitors — without sacrificing safety or quality. 

The rejuvenated airline will begin operations with a fleet of 10 Boeing 737-800 aircraft, the first three of which are expected to arrive by the end of September. 

The controversial Felipe Angeles Airport in Mexico State and the future Tulum International Airport are set to function as the airline’s main hubs.

Earlier: Details like money put Tulum airport project in doubt

The revival of the airline comes after the Mexican government purchased the defunct company for 815 million pesos or roughly 50 million USD. 

The deal is also set to offer benefits to the employees wrongly terminated when the airline went under more than 13 years ago. 

Rendering of Tulum’s planned international airport.

“This is a historic act of justice, we have been waiting a long time for this,” said airline labor union leader José Humberto Gual. 

Though Mexicana does not have any plans for international flights, President Andres Manuel Lopéz Obrador stated that “they will come in due course, but first we have to make sure to offer sufficient coverage to underserved areas of the country.”

Aside from offering passenger service, Mexicana will also transport cargo as well as mail in an effort to make the airline as financially viable as possible, said the secretary of national defense, Luis Crescencio Sandoval.

Major scandal puts Leones baseball playoffs at risk

ByCarlos Rosado van der Gracht

August 9, 2023

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Accusations cast a long shadow over the Leones de Yucatán organization after defeating the Olmecas de Tabasco in their first game of the playoff season. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The Leones de Yucatán organization is accused of forging the documents of several foreign-born baseball players.

According to Proceso, the Leones handed in fake birth certificates to México’s immigration service to obtain Mexican citizenship for some players.

The forged documents were reportedly issued in rural communities where local officials could be bribed.

If proven, the accusations are likely to lead to legal woes for the team, as well as elimination from the ongoing playoffs.

Earlier: Mexico’s national soccer team makes little boy’s dream come true

Team owners Erick and Juan José Arellano Hernández declined to comment. 

The players involved in the scandal include Cuban-born infielder Lázaro Alonso and American pitchers Jake Thompson, Tim Peterson, and Casey Coleman.

According to the rules set by México’s major league baseball, each team can only have a maximum of seven foreign players on their roster. 

This rule pressures teams to obtain Mexican citizenship for foreign players whenever possible to open up further slots. 

Major league baseball in Mexico relies heavily on players from countries such as Venezuela, Cuba, Dominican Republic, and the United States. 

In 2022, the Leones won the Serie del Rey and were crowned champions for the fourth time.  

Sierra Papacal is as delicate as it is stunningly beautiful

ByCarlos Rosado van der Gracht

August 8, 2023

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Sierra Papacal is a tiny community of roughly 1,100 inhabitants and 25 miles from Mérida’s urban core.

On her bicycle, a woman crosses the street in front of Sierra Papacal’s comisaria ejidal. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But despite being so close, this tiny community and the wetlands surrounding it feel like a world away from Yucatán’s capital, despite the fact that it is within Mérida’s metropolitan area.

Because it is so remote, wildlife in the area is abundant, which makes sense given its large concentration of cenotes and wetlands.

Though flamingos are usually not seen in large numbers in Sierra Papacal, they can occasionally be seen flying over the community. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The area is also home to several abandoned haciendas, archaeological sites, and research facilities like the CICY.  

An arch leads to the ruins of a hacienda likely abandoned in the first half of the 20th century. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yuctán Magazine

But what truly makes Sierra Papacal stand out are its gorgeous wetlands which provide water and shelter to hundreds of species of plants and animals. 

Aerial view of Sierra Papacal’s wetland with the Gulf of Mexico visible in the background. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But despite its beauty, the delicate balance of Sierra Papacal’s ecosystem has come under increased risk given the construction of new infrastructure projects, housing, and natural gas lines.

The road and natural gas ducts, which bisect Sierra Päpacal’s wetlands, may make for stunning photographs but depict an ecosystem far from healthy. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

“Given its proximity to both Mérida and Chuburna, combined with its unique geologic properties, Sierra Papacal could be described as the worst place in the entirety of Yucatán to build large housing projects,” said a Ph.D. in Biology candidate working in the area who preferred to remain anonymous.

According to the expert, there are two main problems with construction in the Sierra Papacal region. First, because the ground is so wet, the large pylons needed to create firm foundations disrupt the natural flow of nutrients in the area’s water and soil. 

While the righthand side of the road from Sierra Papacal to Chelem seems largely unaffected, to the right large swaths of former wetlands have been reduced to desertlike conditions. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Secondly, the construction of roads and highways act like barriers that alter the pH balance of the water, leading to both desertification and flooding. 

Aerial view of an island inside Sierra Papacal’s wetlands looking like an alien landscape. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But despite scientists’ warnings, developments in the area continue to spring up and are likely to be visible in the entire region within the short term. 

In Por Esto!, locals decried large-scale development in the area as tantamount to ecocide. 

The region today known as Sierra Papacal was home to several small Maya settlements antiquity, especially during the post-Classic period. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

“Of course, we want to see our community prosper, but this kind of approach is not right for us. The only thing it will accomplish will be to destroy the beauty that attracts people to this area in the first place,” said Martina Ek, a local activist based in Sierra Papacal. 

A couple of Pelicans swim lazily along the water’s surface in Sierra Papacal. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine. 

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

Born in Mérida, Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican/Canadian blogger, photographer and adventure expedition leader. He holds degrees in multimedia, philosophy and translation from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway. Sign up for the Yucatán Roundup, a free newsletter, which delivers the week’s top headlines every Monday.

Everything you need to know about Yucatán’s upcoming solar eclipse  Carlos Rosado van der Gracht  August 10, 2023

It’s important to remember to never look at the sun with the naked eye, even through cameras, telescopes, or binoculars without a solar filter. Photo: Courtesy
On Saturday, Oct. 14, after almost 30 years, a solar eclipse will be visible from the Yucatán Peninsula.A solar eclipse occurs when the moon passes between Earth and the sun, obscuring the view of the sun from a small part of the Earth.

Although the total eclipse will not be anywhere in Mexico, the best place to view this stellar phenomenon if you’re here is the community of Maxcanú.The stellar phenomena is set to begin at 11:22 a.m., reaching its apogee at 11:24 and finalizing at 11:26 with a darkening of the skies of roughly 90%.

Of course, the actual visibility of the eclipse will also be contingent on other factors such as the weather.Other areas listed by experts as ideal to see the eclipse include Hunucmá, Celestún, Sisal, Ticul, Tekax, Oxkutzcab, and Uxmal.

When observing the eclipse it’s important to remember to use special eclipse glasses or solar filters before looking at the sun, as looking at the sun can cause irreversible harm to the visual cortex.

Though the government has yet to announce any program for the upcoming event, in the past the city has handed out special free filters to safely view the eclipse.During solar eclipses, animals including dogs and birds tend to become confused and cause quite a racket.

When it comes to domestic pets, it is best to keep them indoors with a safe place to hide in case they become anxious.The Maya of antiquity were very knowledgeable about eclipses as recorded in the Dresden Codex which covers a period of over 1,000 years of stellar phenomena.

Tren Maya Information:

There are lots of recent comments & posts popping up on various expat FB groups here, inquiring about the details of next year’s upcoming Tren Maya services for Yucatan, Q. Roo, Campeche, Tabasco, Chiapas(?) & Oaxaca … but the information offered is scattered-though & buried-in so many comments & replies, that it’s difficult to suss it all our, or to even ken a little bit of it.
Here’s a summary of what’s currently known:
There will be 5 different types-levels of train services under the Tren Maya program umbrella.
The highest profile Tren Maya trenes are called “P’atal” … Express trains for “tourists” that run fast (100 mph) … have reclining seat options, dining cars, and sometimes even some sleeper cars for the longer stretches … Yet the P’atal trenes will only be stopping at the major “Estaciónes” – stations … AND there will be only limited numbers of these fast, luxurious, express P’atal trains every day.
The next level of Tren Maya trains are slower trains called “Xiinbal” of “Servicios de pasajeros” trens with lots of local smaller stops (“Paraderos”) for local people to get from point A to point B.
Next … There’s a slightly-more luxurious yet-still-slow trains called “Janal” that have high-levels of services, a coffee shop on board, but with slower speeds and lots of stops at Paraderos and Estaciónes …
Then … There’s Merida’s internal loop of trams, called “IETRAM” or “IeTram”, of smaller electric trains (trams) transporting passengers from stations (Estaciónes) out on the main Tren Maya line running south of Merida, shuttling passengers in and out from downtown Merida’s “La Plancha” station (Calle 47 & Calle 50) out to the eastern Hacienda Teya mainline station & western mainline station outside of Uman.
= = = =
Continuing on: There will also be yet another whole different group of trains, running on the second set-pair of rails along the Tren Maya routes, are called “Trenes de cargas” … Freight trains that are scheduled to start in Sept. 2024 … efficiently carrying cargo from Oaxaca to Merida & Cancun …
So, hopefully, these descriptions of the 5 kinds of trains that will be running along the Tren Maya system helps lift a little of the current confusion … along with this fun map of all the small stops (Paraderos) and the main stations (Estaciónes). 

Steven Fry
https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tren_Maya and Mexican national news broadcasts on Canal 14.
Feel free to copy or cite or reference, by citing Yucalandia.com
Read-on, MacDuff …
Comment


Motul, the magic town home of the famous Huevos Motuleños and birthplace of revolution By Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

August 3, 2023

Earlier this summer, the town of Motul de Carrillo Puerto, along with Espita and Tekax, was named one of Yucatán’s three newest Pueblos Magicos, or Magical Towns.

In recent years, several of Motul’s landmarks, including its city hall and church, have been restored in a bid to beautify the city and bring in visitors. But unlike Espita or Tekax, which are a little over two hours from Mérida (in different directions), Motul lay less than an hour from Centro.

Also, unlike Espita or Tekax, Motul is a good deal larger, and though it is by no means a large city, it certainly has a hustle and bustle to it.

Among Yucatecos, Motul is best known for one thing, Huevos Motuleños, or Motul-style eggs. This breakfast staple is made by bathing fried eggs set atop fried (or baked) tortillas in a thick tomato sauce, with ham, cheese, and peas — with a side of fried plantains and a chile habanero, of course.

Huevos Motuleños can be found on breakfast menus across the Peninsula and further afield, but any self-respecting Yucateco will tell you the ones at Motul’s market can’t be beat. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The most famous place to eat Huevos Motuleños is in a restaurant in Motul’s main market called Doña Evelia.

“I am not pretentious enough to think of myself as a chef. I am a traditional cook, and that is more than enough for me,” says Doña Evelia. Motul’s market is also worth visiting in its own right, as it has plenty of shops where you can find foodstuff most often unavailable in places like Mérida.

Aside from food and shopping, Motul’s market also often has musical groups or soloists busking for tips.  An older gentleman plays Frank Sinatra melodies on his slightly out-of-tune Saxophone in Motul’s market.

Motul is also known nationwide for its most famous son, former revolutionary, journalist, and governor Felipe Carrillo Puerto.

In 1909, Carrillo Puerto joined the Mexican Revolution, fighting on the side of the Constitutionalists. He quickly rose through the ranks, becoming governor of Yucatán in 1922. As governor, he implemented a number of progressive reforms, including land reform, women’s suffrage, and the establishment of schools and hospitals for the Maya people.

Wealthy landowners of Yucatán launched a coup against Gov. Carrillo Puerto, who was assassinated in 1924 along with several of his associates. 

Carillo Puerto’s short-lived romance with the American journalist Alma Reed has oddly enough become the stuff of legend in Yucatán (despite the fact that he was already married) and even inspired one of the region best known trova compositions, Peregrina.

Given its proximity to Mérida as well as several attractions, including archaeological sites and cenotes, Motul makes for a great hub to explore the Peninsula while avoiding the hubbub of its capital city.

Cenote Sambula is one of several in the region and happens to be within Motul’s city limits. 

If you go Motul de Carillo Puerto in the north of the Mexican state of Yucatán. Map: Google Maps

To spend the night in Motul, there are several hotels with a wide range of prices. For example, a night at Hacienda San Jose will cost you roughly 3,500 pesos per night, while more basic accommodations can be found at around the 600 peso mark.

Motul is home to several grand casonas built in the late 19th and early 20th century that nowadays double as businesses such as cell phone repair shops and tiny restaurants. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

A little-known fact is that Motul owes its name to a Maya priest born in the 11th century by the name of Zac Mutul. 

An Italian restaurant fit for a Soprano has finally come to Mérida
Lee Steele August 2, 2023

La Sicilia opened in February 2023 in the Santiago neighborhood of Mérida, Yucatán. 

Anyone like me, whose idea of an Italian restaurant was formed in the tri-state area of New York-New Jersey-Connecticut, will feel at home at La Sicilia in Mérida.

And anyone might also be a little thrown to see the absence of Italian-Americans on staff. You’ll be welcomed by a nice family from Oaxaca — by way of New Jersey.

“My dad moved to the United States in 1990, when he was just 14 years old,” the owner’s son, Kristopher Juarez, explains. US-born Kristopher’s English sounds just like mine. It’s his first language.

La Sicilia in Mérida is probably the only restaurant in Mexico with a map of New Jersey painted on the wall. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
“He came to make something of himself and basically live out the American Dream. He had been working some jobs here and there until he started working at an Italian restaurant named Buon Appetite in Bayonne, New Jersey. That is where he started to get his love for cooking, and it just grew from there.”

In 2005, Kristopher’s father and uncle opened the original La Sicilia in Belleville, about 25 minutes from Tony Soprano’s house. It remains open with his uncle and cousins in charge, says Kristopher.


Italian dishes fit for a New Jerseyite at La Sicilia in Mérida. 
“Eventually, we all came to vacation here in Mérida a few times, circa 2015-2021, and we absolutely loved it, but we noticed that most Italian restaurants were not exactly what we were used to,” he says.

Italian-American restaurants, particularly in the tri-state, take a more comfort-food approach to their menu. Dishes are strongly influenced by southern Italy but with a distinctly New York metro flavor. It’s not exactly what diners find in Palermo.

Chicken Savoy, for example, is native only to the Belleville area and has been dubbed “the unofficial state dish of New Jersey.” It’s a simple, unassuming plate with browned, crusted chicken pieces and a tart, brown vinegar sauce.”

Kristopher and his father run La Sicilia in Mérida. But their signature dish is Chicken Monte Bianco, which was imported from the Belleville restaurant. The dish consists of two pieces of chicken breast battered and fried in olive oil, cooked in a cherry wine cream sauce and mixed with fresh marinara sauce, topped with spinach, a slice of tomato, prosciutto, and mozzarella melted on top served with fresh fettuccine pasta. That’s a classic layer-on-layer dish that’s expected in any self-respecting New Jersey Italian restaurant.

“I think what makes our menu different from the other Italian restaurants here in Mérida is that we are not trying to do anything really fancy. We wanted to do something where anyone can come in and feel like they are at home,” Kristopher says.

La Sicilia opened in February 2023 in the Santiago neighborhood of Mérida, Yucatán. No real Italian-American restaurant in New Jersey would be authentic without framed photos of the famous or semi-famous.

The original Sicilia has a photo wall of local celebrities like MLB umpire Phil Cuzzi, “who is one of my dad’s best friends,” and ‘Sopranos’ actors such as Steve Schirripa and the late James Gandolfini, Kristopher says.

To the left of the entrance, aside from the photos, there’s a big map of New Jersey painted on its wall. At first, I thought this must be Tabasco or Oaxaca. But no. It’s actually the Garden State, complete with its major cities and highways.

It’s a great conversation piece, Kristopher says.

“The map was my dad’s idea,” Kristopher says. “He feels so grateful for what he was able to accomplish in New Jersey and never wants us to forget where we came from and how it all started.”

La Sicilia is in the Santiago neighborhood of Mérida, Calle 59 between 64 and 66. Facebook @LaSiciliaMerida

Museum and artisan shops to breathe new life into Mérida’s Ateneo  Carlos Rosado van der Gracht  July 25, 2023

Mérida’s Ateneo lay right next to the city’s cathedral but has over the past couple of decades fallen into disrepair. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Mérida’s former bishopry, known today as the Ateneo Peninsular, is about to get a major overhaul.

The Ateneo, as it is most often referred to by locals, will be converted into a new museum dedicated to the history of the Yucatán.


The Ateneo is one of Mérida’s oldest colonial structures and traces its history back to the 16th century and sits right next to Mérida’s San Idelfonso Cathedral. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
One of the first exhibits to open is slated to be a series of artifacts excavated during the construction of the Tren Maya.

The complex is also slated to have a bookstore, as well as shops dedicated to the sale of high-quality handcrafts.

The project to revive the Ateneo is being spearheaded by the federal government as part of several infrastructure projects funded by the Tren Maya fund.

Earlier: I hope I’m wrong about the Maya Train


Other projects being funded by the Tren Maya fund include a hotel at the archaeological site of Uxmal, as well as the opening of several new museums at sites including Chichén Itzá and Kabah. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
In 1915 the former bishopry closed its doors, giving way to a renovation project which gave the Ateno the french inspired look it is today known for.

The facade of the Ateneo Peninsular is known for its French-inspired architecture dating to the early 20th century. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Since the mid-1990s, the Ateneo has hosted Yucatán’s contemporary art museum or MACAY. Though the museum temporarily closed back in 2021 due to budget cuts, it is now open again, though at reduced hours from 10 AM to 2 PM, except for Wednesdays and Sundays.


The MACAY is in the very heart of Mérida’s Centro Histórico and is accessible through the Pasaje de la Revolución, a corridor adjacent to the San Ildefonso Cathedral and the Ateneo Peninsular. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

The federal government has given an inauguration date for the reopening of the Ateneo, but given that federal elections are to be held next year, it is likely that works will be complete by 2024.Off the beaten path, Tekax is more than just another new Magical Town  Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
July 19, 2023

As of late June, the town of Tekax (along with Espita and Motul) has been named one of Yucatán’s three newest Pueblos Magicos, or Magical Towns.

The road connecting Tekax with Oxkutzcab is lovely, with plentiful vegetation offering much-needed shade. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The hope, at least in theory, is that this designation will attract more tourists to Tekax and southern Yucatán in general, which is far from being a tourist hotspot of the likes of Mérida, Valladolid, or Chichén Itzá.

But upon arrival in Tekak during a recent trip, no “Pueblo Magico” signs were visible, and tourist services were nowhere to be found.

It’s not like Tekax has nothing to offer. On the contrary, this tiny community of around 25,000 is charming and full of interesting spots to check out, to say nothing of the surrounding area.

San Luis Rey Chapel on the outskirts of Tekax, in the tiny community of Tixcuytún, is said by locals to be the oldest colonial construction in the area.   Despite the lack of any “Pueblo Magico” imagery, it’s evident that Tekax has made considerable efforts to beautify itself and keep its streets very clean.

A colorful mural decorates the back of a section of city hall and leads down a walking street full of more murals. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The scenes depicted in Tekax’s murals reference its Mayan heritage, wildlife, and the production of honey and other goods. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Like practically all towns in Yucatán, Tekax’s center serves as the community’s primary hub, flanked by its church, market, and municipal hall.

The heart-shaped wicker ornament with Tekax’s main church in the background is perfect for selfies. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Like the nearby city of Oxkutzcab (try saying that fast three times), Tekax is known for producing large amounts of fruit, including pineapples, watermelons, avocadoes, pitaya, and the exotic-looking saramuyo, known in English for some reason as sugar apple. Though, of course, the region also produces an extraordinary amount of citrus, especially limes and oranges.


Native to the Yucatán, the saramuyo, or sugar apple, is very sweet and has high levels of Vitamin C and iron. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The facade of Tekax’s city hall is not particularly ostentatious, but if you look closely, right below the clock at its top, it says H. Ayuntamiento Socialista de 1926. This is a decade in which Socialist fervor peaked in Yucatán and across México.

The city’s main church and former convent, dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, was first erected way back in 1564, though its current configuration dates closer to the 1700s. Like virtually all large constructions dating to this period, it was erected using materials from far more ancient Maya structures.


Saint John the Baptist in Tekax was built by the Franciscan order, a fact that is well attested to by architectural features such as its large exposed stone entrance and decorative crests. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
More interesting still is the temple chapel of La Ermita de San Diego de Alcalá, built atop a large hill, which makes it resemble a miniature version of Cholula.

The hike uphill to the chapel is quite steep, so make sure to bring some good shoes and tread carefully. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
According to local legend, the temple was built after an image of Saint Diego of Alcalá, which is usually housed inside the town’s main church, suddenly appeared atop a steep hill, only to miraculously disappear and reappear in its original location moments later.


The Chapel of San Diego offers some gorgeous panoramic views of the city and even has a nice little lookout that serves as a picnic area. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
During antiquity, Tekax belonged to the lands controlled by the Tutul Xiu dynasty, who built a great many cities, including Uxmal and Kabah. However, by the time of the arrival of the Spanish, the main center of power in the region was Maní, as even Mayapan appears to have been mostly abandoned by this point.

Ruins atop a hill in the nearby Maya city of Chacmultún, one of the most underrated in the entire state. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
As was the custom of the Spanish, members of the ruling dynasty were allowed to oversee governorship over their old domains as long as they took Spanish names, converted to Catholicism, and collected enough tributes from the locals.


A 16th-century Illustration of the burning of Maya idols and texts in Southern Yucatán by members of the Franciscan order. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yuctán Magazine
During our visit, the main city market was closed due to a renovation project, so most merchants were offering to sell their wares and produce out of the back of trucks. It will certainly be interesting to see how this new market evolves.

Delicious pineapples and watermelons seem to be for sale everywhere you turn in Tekax. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Just a mile or so out of town lay the Grutas Chocantes, a network of particularly interesting caves featuring unique crystal formations. Other activities, such as rappelling and deep cave spelunking, are offered but require a degree of experience to be enjoyed safely.


Basic tours inside the caves descend over 200 feet and take nearly hours to complete, while the “extreme tour” goes much deeper and takes about seven hours to complete. 
Mexico’s Secretariat of Tourism leads the Pueblos Mágicos initiative with other federal and state agencies. To be on their list indicates a “magical” experience for visitors and qualifies local governments for federal funds. Locals also get training and guidance in welcoming tourists.

A statue depicts one of Tekax’s favorite sons, the trovador Ricardo Palmerín. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
But in recent years, the program has come under fire, with locals accusing the government of not following through on their promises and leaving the communities high and dry.


The beachfront town of Sisal, which was named a Pueblo Magico in 2020, now says it wants nothing to do with the program, as it has only increased real estate speculation, taxes, and the cost of living.   Pueblo Magico or not, Tekax is worth a visit, especially for anyone looking for a taste of authentic Yucatán off the beaten path.

For reasons that are not entirely clear, Tekax is known in Yucatán as “La Sultana de la Sierra,” which translates as “The Sultan of the Mountains,” which is a bit odd for several reasons.

The entrance to Tekax proudly welcomes you to  “La Sultana de la Sierra.”   If you go Public transportation from Mérida to Tekax is available, but going by car is much preferable as it is much closer and will allow you to explore other surrounding communities and attractions.

As Tekax is just over two hours away from Mérida by car and there is quite a bit to see in the region, so spending the night is a good idea. The town has several little hotels, many of which have amenities like pools and air conditioning, a real necessity from April to October when temperatures soar.

Mexico sends another contingent to help fight Canadian forest fires  July 6, 2023
Mexican firefighters arriving in Canada to fight wildfires
Mexico’s firefighters arrive in Canada. (Conafor)
Mexico sent a second team of firefighters to Canada on Wednesday to help combat the wildfires currently blazing through Canada’s forests.

The group of 100 firefighters and two technicians traveled from Guadalajara, Jalisco, via Vancouver to the Prince George area of British Columbia, a province in western Canada. They were sent in response to a request for international support from the Canadian Interagency Forest Fire Centre (CIFFC).

Fires in Quebec in June 2023
Wildfires have been blazing from as far west as British Columbia to as far east as Quebec, which has prompted calls from Canadian authorities to seek help from firefighting forces around the world. (File photo/Canadian Forces)
“On instructions from President Andrés Manual López Obrador, who recognizes the complex situation that Canada is going through in the face of forest fires in that country, and building on a solid foundation of bilateral cooperation, Mexico responded positively to a new request,” the Foreign Affairs Ministry (SRE) said in a statement on Wednesday.

The statement stressed that the firefighters have “the experience, physical fitness and training required to stay in the field for the period that is necessary, adhering to international standards to execute the tasks of control and extinction of forest fires.”

This is the second contingent of Mexican firefighters sent to Canada this year. The first group of 200 traveled to Ontario, in eastern Canada, on June 19. They are currently deployed in the areas of Dryden and Sudbury, where they are installing water pumping systems, tracking hotspots, opening fire breaches and directly fighting the flames.

Mexico’s support for Canada is part of the Operational Plan for the Exchange of Resources for Forest Fire Management between Canadian and Mexican participants, ratified this year. It also adheres to commitments made in the Working Group on Forests of the Mexico-Canada Partnership and in the protocols for addressing the effects of climate change in the trilateral North American Leaders Summit.

Mexican firefighters in Vancouver INternational Airport
The contingent of 100 firefighters and two technicians waiting in Vancouver’s International Airport for transfer to Ontario pose with a First Nations totem bearing a Mexican flag. (Conafor)
Canada lost more than 3.8 million hectares of forest to wildfires between January and June, more than 15 times the average of the last 10 years.

Meanwhile, Mexico has been gripped by successive heat waves and historically low rainfall. It has also seen sporadic forest fires in areas such as Guadalajara, but nothing on the scale of the fires in Canada.The next stop brings new hope for Yucatán’s Railway Museum
Lee Steele
June 25, 2023

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Mérida’s Museo de los Ferrocarriles. Photo: Courtesy
El Museo de los Ferrocarriles in the new Gran Parque La Plancha de Mérida will be open to the public at the end of July. And the accommodations appear to be first class.

While the original Yucatán Railway Museum was laid out on an open, grassy field, its new iteration will house most of the antique trains in a rebuilt warehouse. Some will have been restored to their original luster.


The Museo de los Ferrocarriles is folded into the new Gran Parque La Plancha de Mérida. Photo: Courtesy
By mid-July, the Railway Museum’s original operators — in place since 1999 — will officially transfer ownership of the museum to the National Defense Ministry.

Earlier: At La Plancha, where does the railway museum fit in?

Over time, the museum acquired 38 train cars from all over Mexico. They range from a charming 1903 steam engine from Philadelphia to a streamlined 1940s model.

“Fortunately, all the units found a home in the Gran Parque la Plancha,” said Celorio Carretero, who was the founding director of the museum and president of the civic group that ran it. “After 23 years, the civil association that I preside with understood that it was time. We are not immortal, and the new project fits like a glove.”


This powerful engine at the Yucatán Railway Museum was looted during the pandemic. Photo: Yucatán Magazine
The new Railway Museum is located in the northern section of the Gran Parque La Plancha, bounded by calles 50, 42, 43, and 39 near Col. Industrial, Fénix and Jesus Carranza.

Also on Calle 39, where active railroad tracks remained for decades, the le-Tram electric bus system will connect to Tren Maya stations in Teya and Umán, among other points of interest.


The private rail car of José Rendón Peniche, one of Yucatán’s most remembered rail entrepreneurs of the early 20th century, was deemed beyond repair and donated to another museum. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
In the same area are the park’s most active recreation areas, including an artificial lake, skating rink, and amphitheater. The linear park leading to the 1920s-era train station is to the south.

Eight antique train cars will remain outdoors, in the linear park, and are already visible from Calle 48. These trains have been refitted as snack stands.

Some units were conserved, and others were restored according to their degree of deterioration and historical value. The association that was part of the original Railway Museum actively participated in the process.

The former Yucatán Railway Museum closed in November 2022. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
They have advised National Defense staff with technical and color specifications to make the restorations as accurate as possible.

On one of the three tracks adjacent to the museum, there are representatives from five Mexican railways: Sonora-Baja California, Chihuahua-Pacífico, Pacífico, Nacionales de México and Unidos de Yucatán.

However, not all the pieces of historical value could be preserved. Such was the case of the wooden passenger car Rendón Peniche, dating from 1890.

The car, originally from Coahuila, appears in the movies “Guerra de Castas” (“The Caste War”) and “Peregrina,” but between termites and looters, the Rendón Peniche was too expensive to repair.

So it was donated to the Museo del Desierto in Saltillo, which had the means to transport and restore it.

The museography team in charge of fine-tuning details inside the new museum building worked at the Museo del Desierto as well as the Meteorite Museum in Chicxulub.

Active recreation areas at La Plancha Park are on the right, north of Calle 43. The linear park is to the left.
Along with the rest of El Gran Parque La Plancha, the Yucatan Railway Museum is expected to be completed by July 31. The Railway Museum association remains as a volunteer group called “Amigos del Museo.”

More photos: The rustic, original Railway Museum

Yucatán Magazine archives: La Plancha 2014-present

Lee Steele
Lee Steele
Lee Steele is the founding director of Roof Cat Media and has published Yucatán Magazine and other titles since 2012. Sign up for our weekly newsletters, so our best stories will appear in your inbox every Monday.

TOPICSMuseumsWhat’s next for Mérida’s mysterious Casa Morisca?
Lee Steele
June 29, 2023

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Casa Morisca in 2023. Photo: Lee Steele / Yucatán Magazine
Eating dinner at a restaurant across the street, we kept noticing how many passersby stopped to take a photo of the unusual and beautiful building at Calle 51 and 56.

Built in 1909, Casa Morisca (Moorish House) has always stood out. After years of abandonment, its intricate details have been slowly and steadily restored over the past few years.


Casa Morisca, Mérida, Yucatán, 1909. Photo: Wikimedia Commons
While what’s going on now is still unknown to the public, its history is fairly well documented.

This residence was built by Genaro Pérez y Santos, a merchant originally from Pontevedra, Spain, to share with his Yucatecan wife María Alzina. He and his brother Federico, also a trader, along with José María Pino Domínguez, founded a carbonated water company.

The distinctive 24-room French-Moorish house was home to the United States Consulate in the 1920s and a maternity hospital in the 1930s.

While in use as offices, scenes from the 1977 movie “La Casta Divina” were filmed there, according to one neighbor. Around this time, it was owned by the famous Chapur family.

It sat quietly, seemingly abandoned for years until a local architectural firm was hired to turn it into a hotel. The firm is no longer associated with the project.

In 1991, Morisca was completely restored by the architect Eduardo Millet Cámara and sold again in 2017. That’s when the slow-moving renovations and an extension began. Work on the new part of the building, which appears to be a hotel with underground parking, has lagged. Its lines are modernistic, in contrast with the elaborate entrance.


The fine details of Casa Morisca’s domed foyer appear to have been painstakingly restored, as seen in this photo taken in June 2022. Lee Steele / Yucatán Magazine
In 2022, construction workers there told us that Casa Morisca would be offices, but we’ve also heard a restaurant would also be there, or maybe it will be a combination. That same year, I was able to walk through the open front doors and photograph the gorgeous foyer. Its chandelier was missing, but the decorative painting and stained-glass windows appeared to have been returned to their original glory.

In 2022, scaffolding was still installed at Casa Morisca. Photo: Lee Steele / Yucatán Magazine
The Casa Morisca’s stained glass and extravagant arches reflect the Arabic influence that is seen in a few houses in the city of Mérida. It was built by immigrants with an obvious nostalgia for their Andalusian homeland, one local historian has noted.

Lee Steele
Lee Steele
Lee Steele is the founding director of Roof Cat Media and has published Yucatán Magazine and other titles since 2012. Sign up for our weekly newsletters, so our best stories will appear in your inbox every Monday.

TOPICSCentro HistoricoEnjoy the 5 most super duper superfoods from Yucatán
The Peninsula’s bounty is packed with nutrition. Here are some of its best, in no particular order. Provecho!

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
June 29, 2023

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The Peninsula’s bounty is packed with nutrition. Here are some of its best, in no particular order. Provecho!

Maize is a superfood from Yucatán. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Maize
Corn, or maize as it’s called here, was first domesticated in Mesoamerica at least 6,000 years ago. According to Maya myth, mankind itself is made up of this ubiquitous cereal grain which, thanks to a process called nixtamalization, continues to be the primary source of nutrition not just for Mexico and Central America but for much of the world.


Yucatán’s own avocados are essential for frijol con puerco. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Avocado
Though Hass avocados are by far the most popular variety of this delicious fruit, the aguacate Yucateco has many advantages, such as its considerably larger size and longer shelf life. Though more watery and sweet, they offer many of the same benefits as their more cosmopolitan cousin and are indispensable among locals when it comes to preparing dishes such as frijol con puerco.

You can’t have papadzules and sikil pak without calabaza. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Pumpkin
Yucatecan pumpkins (or calabaza) have been a quintessential staple in the region for thousands of years. Aside from being delicious, calabaza contains high levels of Vitamin C, Vitamin E, iron, and folate — all of which strengthen the immune system. Their seeds are also used to prepare a wide variety of popular dishes and dips, including papadzules and sikil pak.


Since the time of the Maya, cacao has been associated with Yucatán. Today, the region’s artisinal chocolate is a known worldwide. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Cacao
For thousands of years, the Maya have enjoyed brothy cacao beverages and even used its seeds as currency. Today, chocolate — cacao’s most beloved product — is produced artisanally in Yucatán. Antioxidants in dark chocolate have been proven to lower blood pressure and increase blood circulation to the heart.

Melipona honey is a major export, purchased by consumers willing to pay a premium for its superior qualities. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Melipona honey
Considered among the best in the world, Melipona — the Peninsula’s honey ­— is produced by the industrious Melipona beecheii bee, also known as Xunáan Kaab, which by the way, is also extremely unusual for its lack of a stinger. Melipona honey also contains high levels of antioxidants and is excellent for treating burns. Because Melipona bee colonies produce only
three or four liters of honey a year, their yield costs considerably more than other varieties. But is well worth the price.


Yucatan’s famous tree spinach, chaya, is highly nutritious and versatile. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Chaya
Also known as Maya spinach or tree spinach, chaya is a shrub widely used to treat diabetes and kidney failure, but it is also a popular ingredient in soups. It’s also added to omelets and tamales and mixed with rice and beans. When harvesting chaya leaves, it is considered important to first “ask the plant for permission” to avoid being pricked by its tiny thorns.

PROGRESO.– Progreso entered the Guinness Record Book yesterday after confirming that it has the longest pier in the world, just over 8 kilometers. (8,018.98 meters)

The announcement was made yesterday at the ceremony for the 152nd Anniversary of Progreso, on the traditional boardwalk, and was made official by the
official adjudicator of Guinness World Records, Susana Reyes.

The mayor, Julián Zacarías Curi, was visibly moved by the new record, as he indicated that this will continue to put Progreso in the eyes of the world.

The mayor highlighted the importance of this appointment for the economic and tourist development of the port. “I want to tell service providers that, with the news of this Guinness Record recognition, they have an unbeatable opportunity to reinvent themselves and take their services to another level.

This distinction has been possible thanks to the efforts we made together with the state government during the recent Sea Trade meeting, which today are giving results and allow us to put Progreso in the eyes of the world” mentioned the mayor. Finally, he assured that “we must always be focused on the objective of seeking the best for our municipality. The progress of Progreso is not only improving what is there, it is advancing towards what will be”.

The Fiscal de Progreso Dock has been built in different stages, due to the growing needs of its operation. The first of them began took place between 1937 and 1939 motivated by the import needs to the capital city of Yucatan, Mérida. Subsequently, the customs building was built, which began operating in 1945 and, in a third stage during 1989, the Remote Terminal was built, with which the structure reached the length of 8,018.98 meters that today have been certified by of the Guinness Record. With the expansion works, the pier would be extended to just over 11 kilometers.

Before the delivery of the Guinness Record certification of “The longest pier in the world”, the mayor and Rafael Combaluzier Medina, Secretary of Sustainable Fisheries and Aquaculture of Yucatán (Sepasy), unveiled the respective plaque in which it is read that the The record was made in the administration of Zacarías Curi and it is established that the pier is 7.5 kilometers long (4.66) miles, so authorities must correct it with the new figure announced.

The adjudicator Susana Reyes specified that in the measurements in which the engineers Hebert Celis Gómez, Manuel Jesús León Irola and Víctor Pastor Tec Tamayo participated, the official length of the pier is 8,018.98 meters.

The adjudicator described the event as a historic moment for the port of Progreso and mentioned that Guinness World Records has the job of measuring, observing and verifying the thousands of record attempts that are made each year.

This time it was the turn of the Progreso dock, which is already certified to be “the longest in the world,” said Susana Reyes.

The event was attended by the Secretary of Fisheries and Sustainable Aquaculture of Yucatan, Rafael Combaluzier Medina, who attended on behalf of the Governor of the State, Mauricio Vila Dosal, as well as the president of the Business Coordinating Council and President of the Employers’ Confederation of the Mexican Republic (COPARMEX) in Mérida, Beatriz Eugenia Gómory Correa, the general director of Asipona, Jorge Carlos Tobilla Rodriguez, the local deputy Erik Rihani González, among other officials.

It is worth mentioning that a chef from Progress, chef Cristina Cruz, has also held a Guinness Record since 2016, for making the world’s largest suckling pig, which weighed 6.6 tons and was held during an event organized by the Produce Foundation. in the city of Merida.PROGRESO. – – Residents of Calle 82, 84 and 86 who are dissatisfied with the construction of the new Progreso elevated viaduct, protested this Saturday in front of the municipal palace.

As anticipated, the residents demonstrated against the work, despite the fact that there are rumors that several of them have already entered into negotiations with the construction of the work in search of some type of compensation. The truth is that today they insisted on once again expressing a resounding NO TO THE 82nd STREET VIADUCT and even wore a flower crown with a black ribbon as well as protest banners.

The demonstration was during the solemn ceremony of the Cabildo for the 152nd anniversary of the city. On the boardwalk, a large police operation was deployed to block the protests, as happened a month ago, on June 1, Navy Day.

Fences and agents were placed to prevent the passage of protesters in the sector surrounding the monument to the founder Juan Miguel Castro, where another ceremony will be held and the plaque of the longest pier in the world will be unveiled with which Progreso will enter the book of records of Guinness.

In a radio interview this morning, whose hosts broadcast live from the Meteorite Museum on the boardwalk, local congressman Erik Rihani González was asked about the elevated viaduct on 82nd Street and the works being promoted jointly by the Federal, State and Municipal Government , such as the expansion of the high altitude port, pointing out that they are wise works, since they are of great economic importance for the state. (ProgressToday)Physical activities are suspended in Yucatan schools due to heat wave
The State Secretary of Education issued a series of recommendations to protect students from high temperatures.
By Writing/dsc  June 20, 2023 In At the moment , States , Principal 0
Physical activities are suspended in Yucatan schools due to heat wave
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MÉRIDA.— The Secretary of Education of Yucatán ( Segey ) announced a series of actions to prevent students , from preschool to high school, both in public and private schools, from being affected by heat strokes , due to the high temperatures that register with the state.

? In recent days, the thermometer has marked above 40 degrees in Yucatan, but the thermal sensation has exceeded 50 degrees and the third heat wave is expected to last until July 18.

Among the recommendations, the suspension of outdoor activities during the central hours of the day stands out , where the heat is more intense (between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m.), as well as using sunscreen and making the dress code more flexible. of each institution.


List of security measures
Avoid direct exposure of students to sunlight.
The use of sunscreen is recommended.
Make the dress code of students more flexible, allowing the use of fresh, light and light-colored clothing , as well as the use of hats or caps.
Implement hydration times in the classroom.
Favor natural ventilation in academic spaces.
Suspend outdoor activities between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. , rescheduling spaces for physical activity, recreation, and rehearsals to covered or shaded areas.
Take breaks inside classrooms or in shaded areas.
Be vigilant for signs of heat stroke, in case of detecting a case, notify the parents and recommend going to a doctor for immediate attention.
Ask parents to provide their children with enough water for their continuous hydration and be careful when handling food , favoring, if possible, non-perishable food.
The measures “modify the daily routines in school groups, however, the care and protection of the health of our students and teaching staff is a priority,” the state agency said in a document.

The temperature is expected to reach 45 degrees for this Tuesday; however, the wind chill could exceed 50 degrees after noon. For this reason, the Yucatan Civil Protection Unit recommended staying hydrated.

We recommend you:Super peso: Who wins, who loses, and how long will it last?
Yucatán Magazine
June 25, 2023

A US dollar bought 20 Mexican pesos a year ago. Now it’s down to around 17. The peso has become among the world’s best-performing currencies.

A combination of high interest rates, Mexico’s current financial stability, and foreign money flowing in have seen the Mexican currency post double-digit gains against the dollar in 2023.

Around 4.6 million households across Mexico receive remittances, which at US$58 billion last year, has been the country’s largest source of foreign currency.

In June, the Mexican peso reached its most robust levels against the greenback since 2016.

Analysts say the peso’s strength is partly due to Mexico’s relatively high interest rate, which is now 11.25 percent.

The lending rate has been raised to fight inflation but has also attracted investors seeking higher returns.

The peso is also boosted by the nearshoring trend of US companies like Tesla moving their production closer to home in Mexico instead of Asia, experts say.

In a country that has suffered significant currency devaluations in the past, the peso’s strength is chiefly hailed as good news.

President Andrés Manuel López Obrador calls it “the Mexican miracle” that has reduced Mexico’s foreign debt.

The “super peso” also reduces the earnings of exporters.

“But I would say a strong peso is better than depreciation or devaluation, in general terms,” López Obrador said.

Rogelio Garciamoreno, a farmer and vice president of the private National Agricultural Council, is both a winner and a loser.

“The prices of many inputs in dollars are falling. We hope to buy them at a better price,” he told Agence France-Presse.

The flip side is that the peso’s strength is bad for food exports.

“These products are priced in dollars. It hits us very hard because we received fewer pesos than we thought,” Garciamoreno said.

The United States accounts for 80% of Mexican exports.

The peso’s appreciation also impacts maquiladoras set up by US companies to manufacture products for the United States market.

“This big devaluation of the dollar is bad for the maquiladoras because they need more dollars to pay the payroll and taxes,” said Jesus Manuel Salayandia of the National Chamber of the Transformation Industry.

The super peso’s days could be numbered, however.

Financial analysts expect a slight depreciation in the Mexican currency, partly due to narrowing interest rate differentials.

While Mexico’s central bank expects to hold its key lending rate at the current level for “an extended period,” the US Federal Reserve has indicated it might raise interest rates another half percentage point this year.

One analyst told AFP that he expects the peso to return to around 19 per dollar toward the end of 2023.

The U.S. Federal Reserve looks likely to raise interest rates next month, which could also make the dollar appreciate against the peso.

That would be good news for Rosario Crisostomo, a woman in Puebla who receives remittances from her grandson in the United States while struggling with rising living costs.

“Everything’s going up. Food’s going up. But now we have less,” she told AFP.

Dermatology and laser clinic Tersana has the newest technology July 11, 2023

At Tersana, Dra. Itzel Cerón is armed with the world’s most state-of-the-art devices and advanced treatments patients need for both clinical and cosmetic consultations. As seen in Yucatán Magazine.

Expats and snowbirds are flocking to Calle 66 for one of Mérida’s fastest-growing skin-care clinics: Tersana. 

One reason is that the dermatologist who founded Tersana, Dra. Itzel Cerón, is armed with the world’s most state-of-the-art devices and advanced treatments patients need for both clinical and cosmetic consultations. 

“I absolutely adore Dra. Itzel,” says one New Yorker who has been under her care. “She listens very carefully and addresses my needs scientifically but also compassionately.” 

Her recently remodeled clinic, Tersana, is a combination of tersa, which is Spanish for smooth, and sana, which indicates health. 

And it has it all, from injectables to the latest scanners and lasers. Technology is such that people who want to improve their appearance can avoid needles while still stimulating collagen or reducing wrinkles. Often, the best solution is a combination of things.

It’s amazing how technology plays into skin care and rejuvenation. As well as areas as disparate as hair growth and cancer screening.

“Our family is growing more and more with the goal of meeting our patients’ needs with the best technology on the market,” says Dra. Cerón. “If you have a problem, we have a laser for that.”

Among the tools on hand at Tersana is the Morpheus8, a microneedling fractional treatment that’s become in demand in Hollywood. There is the Harmony HL Pro for hyperpigmentation and tattoo removal. 

And Accent Prime is the state-of-the-art ultrasound / radio frequency technology for body contouring and skin tightening. It’s also effective for post-surgical swelling that’s not subsiding as quickly as expected.

There is new technology to treat conditions ranging from rosacea to foot fungus. 

“We do everything,” Dra. Cerón says. After a summer season, it’s also a good idea to think about a skin check for detecting any medically threatening signs. Yes, there’s a high-tech scanner for that.

“Everything is for health, including your well-being,” Dra. Cerón explains. “You feel better if you’re confident in your appearance. We make our patients happy with a new version of themselves.”

About Dra. Cerón

Dra. Itzel Cerón grew up in the practice. Her father and mother are both doctors, and by the time she was a teenager, Dra. Cerón knew she wanted to follow in their footsteps. Today, they have divided their family-owned building on Calle 66 into distinct practices. Her dad, also a dermatologist, is across the hall on the second floor. Her mom, an obstetrician and gynecologist, is on the ground floor. Dra. Cerón earned her degree in Mexico City, and today she keeps up with the latest advances by continuing her education. She recently returned from Boston where she attended a massive conference for dermatologists. “The education is always on,” Dra. Cerón says.

Visit Clínica Dermatológica Tersana

Address: Calle 66, 548 between 65 and 67, Centro, Mérida

Facebook: Clínica Dermatológica Tersana

Instagram: @tersana.dermaceron

Call: 999-924-6653 / 999-243-4311

Spa-inspired techniques as natural as breathing Jenita Lawal July 11, 2023

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When Manola Pérez was an executive at Oxxo, jet-setting around the country and opening new stores, she found spas a great way to de-stress. She loved her job, but it often left her feeling ragged and depleted. Spas offered her a getaway and a space to relax and be pampered.

After five years of corporate life, Manola took the leap into entrepreneurship. She knew a spa would be her venture of choice. At that time, a little over 15 years ago, there weren’t many to choose from in Yucatán.

Today, we have more of these services available locally, including the spa Manola founded. In Mérida’s Montecristo neighborhood, The T’ai Spa welcomes guests with wind chimes tinkling in the trees. Open the doors, and sound bowls and soft instrumental music accompany an aroma that lulls visitors into relaxation.

“It was hard in the beginning because most places were small and offered just manicures and pedicures. But I wanted something more full service,” says Manola. “I used to travel a lot, so I took inspiration from places around Mexico and the United States.” 

The T’ai Spa has evolved over the years, and its focus has evolved from pampering to wellness. Looking around at all the women in both her personal and professional circles, Manola noticed that they often put themselves last. 

“We are always taking care of everybody, and sometimes we put ourselves at the end,” she says. “So, our promise is to take care of you. To bring you on a wellness experience where you put yourself first.”

Even something as simple as breathing is included in the wellness experience. Treatments here include an aromatherapy practice of inhaling and exhaling a scented mist the therapist selects for you. The spray itself is refreshing, but the true gift is the moment you breathe.

“For me, breathing is the most important thing,” Manola says. “We do it every day but without being present. It’s part of our ritual, inhale and exhale to bring you back to your center.”

Breathing is essential for life as it supplies oxygen to our body’s cells and helps remove carbon dioxide. When we slow down and become aware of our breathing, several things happen: Breathing exercises can activate the parasympathetic nervous system, which is responsible for promoting relaxation and reducing stress. This can help lower blood pressure, decrease heart rate, and promote an overall sense of calm.

Focusing on our breathing can help us become more mindful and present in the moment. This can help reduce feelings of anxiety and promote a sense of well-being. This can also help improve our respiratory function by encouraging deeper and more efficient breathing.

From infused oils to treatments centered around honey, local products and ingredients are constantly being tested to help her team tailor wellness experiences. This summer, they offer Sound Resonance Therapy to promote healing and relaxation. By exposing the body to specific sound frequencies, it is believed that we can balance the body’s energy and promote healing.

Healing and wellness are at the core of all the services offered. A facial, for example, isn’t just about beauty; it’s about healthy skin. “It’s wellness technology,” Manola says. From infrared light to techniques to improve circulation, treatments such as facials, massages, and sound resonance therapy are a combination of modern innovation and ancient healing practices. 

To add spa treatments to your wellness practice, Manola recommends trying various things to find what feels right to you. “You need to find your practice, your formula. It can be meditation or maybe a massage, a facial, or a pedicure,” she says. “It’s a path to discovery and finding the right thing that makes you feel more relaxed, more connected with yourself.”

Instagram: @thetaispa

Jenita Lawalhttps://jenitalawal.com/ Jenita Lawal is a freelance writer originally from Nashville, Tennessee. She lives in Mérida as a “Travel Curation Specialist, Life Design Strategist, Mom of Teenagers, Lover of Eclectic Souls.”

  • Cilcloturixes argue that ‘life is better on a bike’
The name Cicloturixes combines the prefix ciclo (as in bicicleta or bike in Spanish)  and the Maya word for dragonfly (turix). Photo: Bénédicte Desrus for Yucatán Magazine

Since the 1980s, Mérida has grown dramatically in size and population, as well as cars on the road. Combined with a lackluster mobility infrastructure, the result has been a city far from friendly for cyclists.

But in recent years, this has begun to change, in no small part thanks to the Cilcloturixes, Mérida’s most prominent urban cycling organization. 

Founded in 2012, Cicloturixes have played a vital role in getting new government mobility programs off the ground, including the city’s nearly 50 miles of bike lanes as well as improved infrastructure for pedestrians.

Aside from their agenda of making streets safe for cyclists, the Cicloturixes also share a strong sense of community as well as fun. Photograph by Bénédicte Desrus for Yucatán Magazine

The organization started as a small club of folks who enjoyed exploring nearby cenotes and archaeological sites on their bikes. But inspired by a pro urban cycling group in México City called Bicitekas, the fledgling Cicloturixes decided to make urban cycling and safety their main priority.

Cycling has a long history in Yucatán, but over the past few decades, doing it safely has primarily been relegated to small towns — something the Cicloturixes are determined to change. Photography: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

To this end, the club began organizing nighttime ride-a-longs to promote urban cycling and using fun to get people to rethink their mobility options. In time the Cicloturixes began to expand their activities to nearby communities like AcancehMotul, and Hunucmá 

A recent nighttime ride-a-long organized by the Cicloturixes, including long-time members and first-timers. Photograph by Bénédicte Desrus for Yucatán Magazine

“The main reason people in Méria are resistant to cycling is because they feel it’s not safe. There are many reasons for this, but drivers’ attitudes often really don’t help at all,” said Everardo Flores, the president and principal spokesperson for the organization. 

A large part of Ciloturixes’ philosophy has to do with social justice and doing away with stigmas, as cycling in Yucatán has, for many, been associated with poverty and danger. This is to say nothing of the ever-increasing traffic and carbon emissions experienced by the city daily.

You don’t need to get a tattoo to join the Cicloturixes, but doing so may get you an extra bit of street cred. Photograph by Bénédicte Desrus for Yucatán Magazine

Everardo notes that even in smaller communities that used to be much more cyclist-friendly, many motorcycles and moto-taxis have made the streets much more dangerous. Furthermore, while changing hearts and minds is essential, establishing clear rules and regulations and infrastructure is essential, not only in Mérida but everywhere, to avoid accidents and deaths. 

One of several white bicycles in Mérida to commemorate the death of cyclists — on this occasion, that of Raziel Romario Sosa Navarrete, a 23-year-old woman run over by a motor vehicle trying to pass her on a curve near the Tecnológico de Mérida where she was a student. Photo: Courtesy Cicloturixes

For several years, the organization has been mounting white bicycles on power and telephone poles to bring attention to cyclists who have died due to driver negligence. “This is always an extremely sad thing to have to do. But it’s important that folks know they also had names and the right to be on the road,” says Everardo Flores. 

If you are not especially confident on a bicycle, an excellent opportunity to practice in a safe environment is Mérida’s Bicirutas, which takes place every Sunday morning in Centro. Photography: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

To improve this situation, the Cicloturixes have been working closely with local and state authorities to revamp city ordinances and bi-laws to make cycling safer for everyone and get as many cars off the road as possible. But a big part of achieving these goals also involves improving public transit, a plan that is fast becoming a reality with new bus routes, innovative alternatives like the upcoming ie-tram network, and even options to bring bikes along on specially designed racks. 

That said, the organization also emphasizes the roles cyclists play in their safety, such as the avoidance of cell phones and headphones and the use of reflective gear.

Cycling has a long history in Mérida, but getting around on a bike where there are no bike lanes is becoming more and more dangerous. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Of course, aside from safety, Yucatán’s blistering heat is also an obstacle, as arriving drenched in sweat to work or appointments is not an option for most. To this end, the organization promotes the notion that employers make accommodations and even offer showers to allow workers to change on-premises before getting to work.  

“There are many challenges, but in many ways, Yucatán’s cities are perfect for cycling. Streets are flat, and there are certainly no ice patches to wipe out on,” says Everardo. 

The ultimate goal for the Cicloturixes is to get folks to consider motor vehicles as a last resort when it comes to mobility, as well as to make it possible to get anywhere in Mérida using bike lanes. Though this goal seems lofty, the organization points to efforts made in cities like Paris and Copenhagen as models to follow —  as well as the 15-minute city project, which aims to put people at the center of urban transformation. 

Riding along with the Cicloturixes is lots of fun, and thanks to Mérida’s new bike-sharing program, you don’t even have to have one of your own to join in. Photo: Bénédicte Desrus for Yucatán Magazine

To join the Cicloturixes or take part in any of their activities, check out their Facebook page or website to be informed of upcoming events. 

New flight connects Yucatán to this underappreciated region of Cuba

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht July 7, 2023

As in virtually all of Cuba, Santa Clara is a paradise for antique car aficionados. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Viva Aerobus has announced a new direct flight between Mérida and the laid-back historic Cuban city of Santa Clara. It’s a chance to explore one of Cuba’s most historically significant cities, particularly for followers of famous revolutionary leader Che Guevara.

This small city is known for its casual atmosphere, coffee houses and for being the location where the final battle of the Cuban revolution was fought in 1958, led by none other than Che Guevara.

The city is home to various cultural attractions, including museums and theaters. The Teatro La Caridad, a neoclassical theater built in 1885, offers performances ranging from theater to dance and music. The Museum of Decorative Arts displays an impressive collection of Cuban art and antiques.

Like in virtually every Cuban town and city, images of the revolution are everywhere. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Roughly 200 miles to the east of Havana, Santa Clara has a population of around 22,0000 people — around a 10th of the country’s booming capital. 

Santa Clara is closely associated with Che Guevara. Apart from the mausoleum, visitors can also explore the Tren Blindado Monument, which commemorates the derailment of an armored train during the revolution. The monument showcases the actual train cars used by the revolutionaries. 

Other popular attractions include the several beaches in the area. But it’s important to remember that, unlike Havana, Santa Clara is not a coastal city, with the closest beaches being about one hour away. 

Beaches near Santa Clara, like Cayo Santa María, tend to
be much less crowded than those surrounding Havana or Varadero. Photo: Courtesy

Though US citizens are still technically not allowed to visit the Communist island for tourism, as of 2021, these rules appear to have been loosened considerably. 

Music is everywhere in Cuba, and a surprising amount of people make their livelihood this way.
Make sure to tip generously. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

That said, visiting Cuba remains a thorny issue for many who consider such an activity as a means of support for the totalitarian regime. But especially outside of Havana, tourists usually rely on staying at private accommodations in Cuban homes and eating at “semi-formal” local restaurants, which is a real economic lifeline for many families on the island who depend on tourism. 

Flights will depart every Thursday. Viva Aerobus says travelers can expect the route to begin operating sometime this summer. 

Mulchic — a glimpse into Maya Warfare in the Puuc Valley

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

July 10, 2023

Mulchic is covered in vegetation, and hornet nests are fairly common, so be well-prepared. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Pop culture images of the Maya often seem to go in extreme directions. These visions of Maya society oscillate between bloodthirsty people obsessed with human sacrifice to the equally absurd fantasy of a noble race of peaceful folks living in perfect harmony with nature. 

The haze of time sometimes blinds us to the fact that the ancients were people just like us, though fortunately, skull deformation has fallen out of fashion. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

In reality, Maya societies were far from homogeneous and, like us, could achieve beautiful feats of wonder while having an eye always set on warfare. 

The Puuc region is one of the most archaeological densely packed areas in all of Mesoamerica, with sites like Labna and Sayil open to the public and dozens of others deep in the jungle. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

In the Yucatán, this duality is exemplified by the many sites of the Puuc region, some of which were peaceful farming communities while others were essentially military bases. Representing the latter is Mulchic (sometimes spelled Mul-Chic).

The tallest structure at Mulchic is the step pyramid known only as Structure A. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Built in the 5th century, Mulchic is widely believed to have served as a strategic military settlement on the sacbé connecting Uxmal to Kabah and Santa Elena. 

Unlike Uxmal or Kabah, archaeological restoration at Mulchic has been quite limited. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The main focus of the research at Mulchic has always been its impressive frescoes depicting battle and military life. The largest measures 28 by 8 feet, making it the largest of its kind in the Puuc region.

The main chamber within which most of the frescoes at Mulchic were discovered. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Though as nowhere as well preserved as the frescoes at Bonampak, these scenes offer invaluable information regarding warfare in the Puuc region. 

A vaulted structure has the remains of a Puuc-style crest. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Because most Mesoamerican weapons were built using both perishable and nonperishable materials, few relatively intact examples still survive to this day.  Given the historical value of Mulchic’s frescoes, they were moved to Mérida in the 1980s for research and restoration. 

The macuahuitl is a Mesoamerican weapon made up of a wooden club with several embedded obsidian blades. Image from the Florentine codex. Photo: Courtesy

Like many ancient societies, the Maya drew no clear distinction between civic, religious, and military life, and military leaders are often shown wearing large headdresses and abundant jewelry — though it is unlikely they would throw themselves into battle wearing such heavy gear. 

Image of a military leader outfitted in full ceremonial garb. Based on a badly eroded image found in the southern section of Mulchic’s chamber of frescoes. Illustration: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine.

The same principle applies to common soldiers, though to a lesser degree. 

Most of the warriors depicted on the murals at Mulchic are shown carrying what is likely a projectile-type spear known as a átlatl.

The átlatl likely originates in Mexico’s central valley and was especially deadly given the force with which it could be thrown using a detachable counterweight at its base. Image: Courtesy

Sections of the original murals and a couple of lintels are in Mérida’s archaeology and anthropology museum, though they are not always on display. Reproductions can be seen in Mérida’s Museo del Mundo Maya

A section of one of the largest and best-preserved frescoes from Mulchic. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

If you go

Though Mulchic is right in the heart of the Puuc route, getting there can be a challenge because there are no signs indicating its location. 

Mulchic is near Santa Elena, Yucatán. Image: Google Maps

The best way to get to the site is to hire a local guide in Santa Elena because getting to Mulchic requires making your way by foot through a few ejidos, and it’s best to do so with a local. The same is true of other area sites that are not open to the public, such as Xcoch.

The remains of what was likely once an elite residence in the middle of the ceremonial center at Mulchic.
Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine 

American Airlines, Delta, Air Canada add new flights in Mexico June 16, 2023

Air Canada plane in flight
Air Canada will offer four flights a week between Toronto and Monterrey, Nuevo León, starting Oct. 29, making it the only Canadian airline to connect Canada and the Mexican city. (Rene Dominguez/Shutterstock)

Three major airlines in the United States and Canada recently announced an expansion of their schedules to include new flights to different cities in Mexico starting in the fall season. 

Canada’s flagship carrier Air Canada will open a seasonal winter route from Montreal (YUL) to Los Cabos, Baja California (SJD) beginning on Dec. 1 that will operate once a week on Fridays.

Aerial view of Cancun, Mexico
Among American Airlines’ new routes are nonstop flights to Cancún from the U.S. cities of Nashville and Cincinnati. (Dronepicr/Creative Commons)

Air Canada will also offer year-round service of four flights per week from Toronto (YYZ) to Monterrey, Nuevo León (MTY) starting Oct. 29. The outbound flight to Monterrey will operate on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, while the return flight will operate on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. 

This new route will make the carrier the only Canadian airline connecting Canada with the city of Monterrey.

American Airlines has also unveiled its winter schedule to Latin America and the Caribbean, which includes over 2,250 weekly flights to 90 destinations in the region. Among the new services are new nonstop flights from Nashville (BNA) and Cincinnati (CVG) to Cancún, (CUN). These will be seasonal routes that operate every Saturday from Dec. 9 through March.

American also announced a second daily service to Cancun from Austin, Texas (AUS), set to begin on Nov. 5. 

The carrier also plans to add seven new routes to Mexico from Dallas-Fort Worth (DFW). It currently has more than 50 daily departures from DFW to various cities in Mexico. 

Delta Air Lines also announced an expansion of its services to Latin America and the Caribbean that will operate between Jan. 8 and April 7, 2024. Delta’s new flights to Mexico will add daily departures to the routes that connect Atlanta (ATL) and Minneapolis (MSP) with Puerto Vallarta; Detroit, Minneapolis and Atlanta with Cancún; and Minneapolis with Los Cabos.

Yucatecan gastronomy is promoted in London

  • Led by chef Wilson Alonzo, he transported the media with ancestral techniques and flavors by holding a Yucatecan tamale workshop / The residence of the Embassy of Mexico in the United Kingdom will host a photographic exhibition with some of the most emblematic attractions Yucatan tourist attractions that will be seen by thousands of Londoners

LONDON.– Once again, the gastronomy of Yucatan flaunted its greatness through its flavors, smells, colors and on this occasion also through the ancestral techniques in the old continent in the hands of chef and traditional cook Wilson Alonzo.

As part of the work plan of Governor Mauricio Vila Dosal to increase visitors to the destination, as well as the decentralization of tourism that has been carried out with great success so that the benefits of this sector reach more Yucatecan families, the Ministry of Development Turístico del Estado (Sefotur) carries out actions and strategies to promote and position Yucatan at strategic points in Europe, through gastronomic and photographic exhibitions, destination presentations and training for travel agencies and other industry players.

Continuing with the work tour carried out by the agency in charge of Lic. Michelle Fridman Hirsch and with the support of the Embassy of Mexico in the United Kingdom, different activities were carried out, among which a workshop on Yucatecan tamales for 40 media outlets. by the gastronomic ambassador Chef and traditional cook Wilson Alonzo, as well as a photographic exhibition mounted in the surroundings of the Embassy house.

Accompanied by Josefa González-Blanco Ortíz-Mena, Mexican Ambassador to the United Kingdom, Fridman Hirsch toured the perimeter fence of the Embassy residence, where thousands of people who travel around one of the busiest areas of London will be able to see in a series of photographs of the State, several of the attractions and tourist emblems that characterize Yucatan, among which cenotes, haciendas, its Magical Towns, gastronomy and its traditions stand out.

Complementing these activities, the destination was presented to the tourism industry, which received more than 60 professionals, as well as meetings with tour operators and a meeting with the WTTC.

With actions like these, Sefotur and the Government of Yucatan continue working to bring the state’s tourism offer to more international markets that are an important generator of travelers to Mexico and who will find in the destination the opportunity to learn more about the Mayan culture. and of the natural beauties of the region, thus generating greater economic benefits and, therefore, greater benefits for the entity.

The work tour of the Yucatecan entourage will be ending in the coming days, with Madrid as the stage, and the Spanish as spectators, where Yucatecan traditions and gastronomy will continue to shine.

With extensive road operations and police presence, the construction of the Progreso elevated viaduct began

  • SURPRISE FOR THE INHABITANTS FOR THE BEGINNING OF THE WORKS ON 82 STREET / SURVEILLANCE IN THE AREA IN THE PRESENCE OF NUMEROUS POLICE TO CONTROL THE ROADS / TRUCK TRUCKS ARE ALREADY TRAVELING IN DOUBLE WAYS ON 86 STREET

Traffic on 86th Street is already two-wayPROGRESS. – – In the midst of a broad police operation by agents of the SSP, today construction work began in this city on the new Progreso elevated viaduct that will run along Calle 82 to connect the high altitude port and the Mérida-Progreso federal highway.

From very early on, numerous state agents arrived aboard trucks and riot patrols and placed various signs to indicate to the citizens the changes in the roadway of the first square of the city, mainly on 82nd street. On 86th street, there was also a a road operation to convert that two-way street from 33 to 41, so that trucks enter the dock and leave for Mérida on that same artery.

The agents also brought metal fences that were installed behind the municipal palace of Progreso, which is where the perforations began with a machine known as a “piling machine”, which is the one that will carry out the perforations for the placement of the piles that will support the slabs. that will make up the work.

The start of the works surprised the inhabitants of this city, who were waiting for the start-up until Friday -as had been announced-, but the work began on Tuesday, June 13, 2023.

The director of INCAY, Sergio Chan Lugo, as well as the director of Public Works of Progreso, Luis Castro Naal, as well as ICA engineers, were present observing the movement. Most of the construction workers who were in the area today are originally from Tabasco.

On Calle 82, between 31 and 33, the “pilotadora”, a blue machine about 20 meters high, was placed and the large-diameter drill bits for drilling the ground were unloaded, as well as the metallic structures and reinforcements that will serve as for the casting of the first piles. All the machinery came aboard cargo trucks that were parked on that same artery.

In the presence of the police and the metal fences, some residents observed the start of the work. In a live broadcast that we carried out on Facebook, early this morning, the work on that artery is observed.

Other inhabitants said that they were not notified of the start of the work, but indicated that they are aware that the work promoted by the federal government, in coordination with the state and municipal governments, “will be done at any cost.”

Until this noon, residents who had been demonstrating against the work had not issued any statement, nor had they demonstrated. There are versions that they were in talks with the construction company in order to determine what will happen to their properties.

As is known, the work is promoted by the federal government -with the support of the state and municipal governments- as part of a package of works that seek to trigger the economic development of Progreso. These three works are the new elevated viaduct on Calle 82, the expansion of the dredging and navigation channel of Puerto Progreso and the construction of an “Economic Pole of Well-being” that will be located on the Mérida-Progreso highway (where the Economic Zone would operate). Special).

For the new elevated viaduct, as we reported, the state government tendered the work, the operation of which was also concessioned for the next 30 years, so that the road will be paid (tractors must pay to pass over the viaduct). The company that will build and manage this highway, which will be federal, is the consortium headed by ICA INFRAESTRUCTURA. A 100% private investment of about $1,500 million pesos is estimated and the works are expected to last a year and a half, generating 1,500 direct jobs and 5,000 indirect ones.

For the expansion of the dredging and navigation channel of the port of high altitude, the state government requested and received approval to obtain a credit for more than $3 thousand million pesos. Even AMLO’s secretary of the interior, Adán Augusto, came to Yucatán to ask the local deputies to approve the credit for the work, which was achieved without setbacks. Port expansion works will also begin shortly. (ProgresoHoy.com)

Prostasur: Robotically assisted prostate cancer surgery comes to YucatánFrom Dr. Roberto García Carillo

Technology plays a huge role in daily life, and health care is no exception. 

For prostate cancer patients, robotically assisted surgery is one such example. 

Robot-assisted prostate surgery expertise has come to Yucatán. Photo: Courtesy

When a patient is diagnosed with prostate cancer, it is normal to feel a wave of feelings such as denial, anger, and depression. But once acceptance is achieved, the only goal for the patient and their loved ones is to seek out the best treatment.

It would be wonderful to know which patients’ cancer will spread and whose won’t, thus avoiding unnecessary interventions. During my research residence at Imperial College London, I witnessed impressive research focused on uncovering the markers that could give us such insights, allowing us to make better decisions. 

However, as of yet, these techniques are not entirely reliable. Therefore, surgery continues to play a fundamental role in the treatment of virtually all prostate cancer patients.

The good news is that robotically assisted surgery has made enormous strides in both efficacy and precision in the operating room. 

In Mexico, there are only a few urologists who have the training, accreditation, and experience necessary for working with this kind of advanced technology. While it’s true that robotic surgery is fairly common in the United States, it is often cost prohibitive, especially for those without sufficient insurance. 

However, these same procedures are now available in Mexico for patients seeking out a more cost-effective alternative.

I recall the first time I saw this technology in action while in France. I was amazed to see the surgeon operating from a console with a degree of precision only possible through the use of robotics. I knew right away that I wanted to bring this treatment to my home country, though the road to achieving the necessary certifications would not be an easy one. After completing my training in robotic surgery in the United States, I had the privilege to become the first specialist to perform robotically assisted prostate cancer surgery in southeastern Mexico. 

As technology has continued to improve, so have the outcomes. But it’s important to remember that at the end of the day, this technology is but a tool in the hands of a highly trained specialist. Despite the usefulness of technology, it is imperative to never leave out the human factor and the certainty that comes with trusting the deep ethical commitment of the “person behind the machine.”

These days all professions depend more and more on the use of technology, but it’s important to never lose sight of the human element and its desire to do good.

Dr. Roberto García Carillo is a surgeon certified in urology by the Mexican Council of Urology, with certifications in robotic surgery from Sunnyvale, California, and a specialization in endoscopic robotic surgery from Mexico’s National University. Dr. García Carillo runs a private practice in Mérida, Yucatán, and performs robotic surgeries in Mexico City. He offers virtual and in-person consultations to patients across Mexico, the United States, and Canada. He is currently the director of Prostasur, the only clinic in southeastern Mexico exclusively specialized in treating the urological needs of men.

How the ‘superpeso’ became so super

May 26, 2023

Photo: Getty

Mexico isn’t the bargain it used to be. And the trend is toward luxury, not rustic digs.

The peso — now called the “superpeso” — is having a record-breaking year, stronger than it’s been in more than five years, up 9.5% in 2023 alone. A dollar bought about 20 pesos a year ago, and today, it’s worth under 18.

Still, traveling to Mexico is more popular than ever among foreigners, and the food and lodging options have gotten more luxurious. And tourists are paying luxury prices for them.

Nearshoring is also fueling the economy, bringing the supply chain closer to markets in the U.S., which shares a 2,000-mile border with Mexico.

BMW is spending more than $860 million to expand its electric-vehicle production in Mexico, and Tesla plans to build a factory in Monterrey. Those two announcements also strengthened Mexico’s currency.

Foreign investment has been at its highest level since 2015. According to Hotel Investment Today, Mexico leads Latin America’s hotel development pipeline with 203 projects in the works totaling 33,475 rooms. 

COVID-era austerity policies also helped, despite the suffering they caused at the time. 

Mexico’s refusal to infuse the economy with stimulus during the pandemic strengthened the peso versus economies/currencies that printed a lot of money, said Zach Rabinor of Journey Mexico.

“The peso’s high carry, enhanced by an extra hawkish Banxico, lack of political noise compared to peers, its status as a US proxy, still strong remittances, and the trend of nearshoring back the MXN,” said Alejandro Cuadrado, global head of FX strategy at BBVA in New York. These factors “have reduced the peso’s volatility and made it asymmetrical: particularly resilient to wobblier global risk and the USD push elsewhere.”

Expats living on Social Security are also getting squeezed, as are Mexicans who receive remittances from family earning dollars in the US. 

A strong peso makes the prices of goods from Mexico more expensive in relative terms, which makes these products less attractive and reduces their demand in international markets.

Conservationists use AI to spot rare, wild jaguars in Yucatán

ByYucatán Magazine

Electronic monitoring helps a team of nature conservation experts using Huawei Cloud and artificial intelligence to identify at least five jaguars in a nature reserve in Dzilam, Yucatán. Photo: Courtesy

With the help of Huawei Cloud and artificial intelligence, they have identified at least five previously unseen jaguars in a nature reserve in Dzilam, Yucatán.

The Tech4Nature Mexico project, launched last year in the Dzilam de Bravo nature reserve, analyzes images and sound data to identify and track jaguars and their prey, a team of nature conservation experts announced.

The project involves partners including the International Union for Conservation of Nature, Polytechnic University of Yucatán, C Minds’ AI for Climate initiative, Rainforest Connection, the local community, and state government authorities. China-based Huawei supplied the capabilities of Huawei Cloud to the project.

The team has collected more than 30,000 photos, 550,000 audio recordings, and numerous video clips of wild animals. This data trove provides deep insights into local wildlife to researchers and contributes to the preservation and promotion of Yucatán’s biodiversity. The data is processed on the ModelArts AI Platform from Huawei Cloud and Rainforest Connection’s Arbimon AI platform.

“The first thing we discovered was that it was difficult to convince someone to invest in conservation,” said Sayda Rodriguez Gomez, secretary of sustainable development of Yucatán. “If people don’t know there are these animals, they don’t help us.”

The team identified 119 species, including 88 birds, 22 mammals, five reptiles, and four amphibians, of which 34 species are on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Prior to the project, local experts didn’t know whether the reserve was home to jaguars and, if so, how many there were.

“We need to upload the data to a Big Data platform because it is a high volume of information,” says Joaquin Saldana, director of strategic marketing at Huawei Latin America. “We need to process it at high speed and with artificial intelligence. Then start to understand the pictures and be able to detect the animals that interest us.”

The team is now working to develop algorithms enabling individual identification of jaguars, which will be fundamental to figuring out how many jaguars live in the region.

“We are setting the basis for a state-wide biodiversity monitoring platform with AI on the Huawei Cloud,” says Regina Cervera, a project coordinator at the innovation agency C Minds. “Our umbrella species is the jaguar because if we make sure to protect it, then we protect everything that surrounds them. What we are doing is a huge and pioneering step for decision-making for conservation and nature-based solutions.”

Ecologists estimate that around 4,000 to 5,000 jaguars live in the wild in Mexico. More than half of them live in the Yucatán Peninsula, making it one of the primary regions for their conservation. But their existence is threatened by illegal hunting, deforestation, and climate change.

Protecting the jaguar means a lot to local communities. Juan Castillo, a community leader in the Dzilam de Bravo Reserve, says that he has heard about the jaguars ever since he was young. In Mexico, the number of jaguars is now growing, increasing to 4,766 animals in 2018 from 4,025 in 2010, a promising sign that conservation strategies are working.

“All this is jaguar land,” Juan Castillo said. “Since I was a child, I liked knowing that it is part of us. Sometimes what I say makes people laugh: the day I die, I would like to be a jaguar. I hope there is still a way to take care of them because tomorrow, we will only be seeing them in books.”

With information from Huawei

The obscure caves of Aktún Usil dare adventurous souls

The cave system and archaeological site Aktún Usil are seldom explored by all but the most adventurous visitors to the Yucatán. 

A petroglyph depicts a monkey within the Aktún Usil cave. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

This relative obscurity likely has much to do with the fact that the site is managed by a local cooperative and receives little to no promotion.

According to the site’s caretakers, most visitors to the site and cave had never heard about it before, choosing to check it out after seeing the signs on the side of the road. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Though the cave and the remains of this ancient city have been researched by INAH, its structures, save for what was once an elite residential complex on the side of the highway, still need to be restored.

Aktún Usil’s location, architecture, and period of occupation suggest strong links with the Puuc stronghold of Oxkintok, famous for its labyrinth and grand pyramids.  

A view of Oxkintok from atop its largest pyramid. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

When approaching Aktún Usil, visitors likely notice a handful of restored artificial platforms sitting discreetly between the lanes on the highway. 

Because of the large amount of archaeology in the region, it is not unusual to see highways and other public works incorporate design elements to protect cultural heritage. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht  

At the exit to the Aktún Usil, the aforementioned restored elite residence complex sits atop a large artificial platform. Just beyond it, several signs point to the destination.

In Mesoamerican cultures like the Maya, the residences of the society’s elite are characterized by being built atop large artificial platforms. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Once you arrive at the entrance to Aktún Usil, there is a gate. Calling the numbers listed on the “no entrance” notice summons the site’s caretakers.

There is no shortage of signs along the path, which is good since otherwise, it would be easy to get lost. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Once inside, a windy stone path leads to the cave network itself, alive with the sound of chirping birds, dripping water, and large, scampering toloks (iguanas). 

Unrestored ancient mound on the way to the caves at Aktún Usi.
Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The cave network at Aktún Usil is truly beautiful and makes for a fantastic opportunity to get some interesting photographs. 

The light from the surface pierces through a natural formation creating a pillar of light in the Aktún Usil caves.
Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Unlike other cave systems such as Lol-tún or Calcehtok, access and moving around in Aktún Asil is fairly easy, but you still better watch your step. 

The main entrance into Aktún Usil has a rope to make the descent easier, but it is really not that steep to begin with. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Inside the caves, you will notice that the walls are covered in a plethora of colors created by mineral formations, as well as plenty of stalactites, stalagmites, and several other interesting geological formations.

The interior of the cave is really beautiful and since it is fairly large, you are unlikely to feel too claustrophobic. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But aside from the beautiful geological formations, what really makes this cave system stand out is the large amount of Prehispanic carvings and petroglyphs found in its interior. 

A closeup of Maya petroglyphs painted red on the ceiling of Aktún Usil cave, right at its entrance. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Inside the caves, several shards of ceramic and some well-preserved stone vessels were likely used to collect the water that seems to filter through the cave’s limestone structure all year. 

There is no lack of artifacts in Aktún Usil, but remember that no matter how tempted you feel to take a couple back with you, this is a grave federal offense punishable by lengthy prison sentences and hefty fines. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Also of interest are a series of handprints painted on the cave’s walls, using the same negative painting technique found at many other sites. 

Given their antiquity, it is quite remarkable that the natural pigments used to create the artworks at Aktún Usil are still visible at all. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

There are also a handful of interesting carved petroglyphs carved into the cave walls, though they are badly eroded, which is unsurprising. 

A scene carved in stone into the walls of Aktún Usil featuring elements appearing to refer to the rain god Chaac, as well as a reference to the cardinal points. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Guides at the site are also likely to point out what they identify as sculptures. Still, given the erosion of time and the high humidity inside the caves, it is hard to tell if these are genuine sculptures or just stone formations that vaguely resemble turtles, crocodiles, and the like. That said, they may be of ancient origin.

Inside the caves are a few carvings which guides claim to be of ancient origin, but given their features, some skepticism arises. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Outside the caves, you will also notice several large mounts of stone, which are the remains of ancient structures. 

An ancient mound near the gate leading to the Aktún Usil caves. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Unrestored mounds can be found just about everywhere in the area. The presence of carved stone and ceramic is a dead giveaway of their ancient origin.

The remains of a collapsed vault atop one of the many ancient structures on the grounds surrounding the Aktún Usil Caves. Photo: Carlos Rosado vans er Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

If you go

Aktún Usil is in Mexico’s Yucatán state, roughly an hour south of Mérida, along the highway to Campeche.

Location of Aktún Usil, nearby Muna, Ticul, and Maxcanú.
Map: Google Maps

Finding the exit to the site is easy, though the first section of the highway is a little tricky as it’s just made up of gravel. Fortunately, the road gets much better fast. 

The road after the main exit to Aktún Usil is not marked on google maps or other similar applications I have used, so make sure to follow the signs. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The members of the ejido that maintains Aktún Usil have done a marvelous job of keeping the grounds and receive no support from the government. It is appropriate to thank them with at least a couple hundred pesos.

Though getting to the site is not particularly demanding, go early to avoid the sun, and wear comfortable but closed shoes, not flip-flops! Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine